Welcome to my Mauritania travel guide. I had a whirlwind trip to the desert lands of Mauritania! The country is still flying under the radar for most tourists, but in my opinion, it’s one of the best off-the-beaten-path destinations in West Africa.
That said, Mauritania isn’t the easiest country to travel to. I wouldn’t recommend it for first-time travellers, and even if you’re an experienced backpacker, you might find the conditions challenging at times – think long distances, minimal infrastructure, and hardly any English is spoken which can make travelling around pretty fuckin tough.
But if you’re up for a proper adventure, one that takes you almost completely off-grid with magical starry skies, wild train rides, and wandering through crumbling ancient cities, Mauritania just might be your dream trip.
To help you plan, I’ve jam-packed this travel guide with everything I wish I knew before visiting. You’ll find tips, personal highlights, places I visited (and a few I’m still dreaming of), and all the practical info you need for an unforgettable experience.
The Best Mauritania Travel Guide Overview
In this Mauritania travel guide, I wanted to create a space to share everything I learned from my recent trip. All the info here comes from my personal experience backpacking across the country and the research I’ve continued to do since.
One of the biggest takeaways from travelling in Mauritania was how friendly the people are – especially outside the cities. The further inland I went, the more curious and welcoming locals became, perhaps intrigued by the solo female traveller rocking up in their town.
But it wasn’t just the people who stood out. The scenery was magnificent. Totally different from what I usually love: beaches, palm trees and tropical vibes. Mauritania’s desert landscape is vast, raw, and striking, with golden dunes, rocky canyons, and endless horizon views.
It absolutely deserves a spot on your off-the-beaten-path bucket list!
Like most of the countries I visited on my road trip, where my dad and I rode a tuk-tuk from Sierra Leone to the UK, Mauritania is one I’d jump at visiting again. And I have a feeling you’re going to love it too!
There are still a few spots I’d love to explore, so I’ve included both the places I visited and the ones I’m still dreaming of (because you might want to go before I do!).
If you’re planning a trip to Mauritania, this is the travel guide I wish I’d had – and I hope it helps you plan the most epic adventure possible.
My Personal Highlights
Before I dive into the chapters of this guide, I wanted to share a few of my favourite memories from my time in Mauritania.
My absolute favourite place was the Terjit Oasis. Visiting a desert oasis had been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember, and finally ticking it off was an unreal feeling. As we approached the oasis, I was completely overwhelmed with joy – it’s a moment I’ll never forget.
Hidden between steep canyon walls, Terjit is a thick forest of lush palm trees. It feels like a secret world in the middle of nowhere (well, I guess it really is). The bathing pool, although small, is pretty epic; it provides fresh water to the surrounding villages and wildlife – the gift of life in an otherwise dry landscape.
Another unforgettable memory was riding the Iron Ore Train through the vast Sahara. Hands down, one of the most unique travel experiences I’ve ever had. It wasn’t always fun (the desert night left me absolutely frozen), but waking up to that sunrise was something else!
Going solo into the depths of Mauritania was a highlight in itself. The journey from leaving Nouakchott to arriving in (the not-so-great) Nouadhibou was full of moments I’ll never forget.
This trip – with its long distances, lack of signal, and moments of stillness – also gave me a chance to reflect. To reconnect with myself. It was, for lack of a better word, soul invigorating.
The memories I made and the decisions I came to on this trip were unexpected, extraordinary, and truly life-changing.
You might also be interested in
- Wondering what it’s like to visit Sierra Leone? I’ve deep dived in to the country’s best and ugliest sides!
- If you’re in to wildlife, you might enjoy a visit to Sierra Leone’s Tacugama Chimp Sanctuary.
- If it’s your first time in West Africa, I recommend starting in Senegal – here’s why!
- And if you really want an easily introduction to Africa, head to Marrakesh in Morocco – it’s chaotic, wild and so much fun!
Why Mauritania Is An Epic Travel Destination
Mauritania is a raw country, off the tourist trail and full of unexpected surprises. It’s a place where backpacking still feels like backpacking: undiscovered routes, hitchhiking, and untouched natural beauty.
That said, it’s slowly growing in popularity, especially with adventurous souls who want something different to the usual backpacking trails. However, you won’t see it flooding your socials like Italy or Morocco. Tourism is still in its infancy here, and getting around is half the adventure!
Even though Mauritania is considered by some to be unsafe, I had a very different experience. Sure, there are regions best avoided, and yes – the FCDO advises against all but essential travel to certain areas – but I personally felt safe travelling across the country.
Mauritania offers a once-in-a-lifetime chance to explore one of the world’s most distinctive and offbeat regions.
It’s culturally fascinating, steeped in a deep-rooted history, ancient traditions, and surprising, natural beauty. The Bedouin heritage you’ll encounter gives a fascinating glimpse into a way of life that’s slowly disappearing.
The further inland I travelled, the stronger the sense of community became. The tiny villages in the Adrar region and nomadic encampments scattered across the sands provided a place of quiet resilience and deep connection.
I think Mauritania is perfect for travellers wanting to truly go off the beaten path – to experience the meeting point of Arabic and West African cultures in a way that feels raw and real.
Another reason Mauritania is an epic travel destination? The sheer vastness of the Sahara. You’ll encounter ancient caravan towns, remote oases, and that epic ride on the Iron Ore Train – it’s truly incredible – I absolutely loved it!
Keep in mind, Mauritania is an offbeat destination
While Mauritania is absolutely worth exploring, it’s not the kind of place you just show up to without a plan. Research, preparation, and patience are key.
This isn’t somewhere you hop on a bus whenever you feel like it and expect things to run smoothly. Transport can be unpredictable. Accommodation outside the capital is basic.
The country is predominantly Muslim, so dressing respectfully – especially for women – is a must.
Travel can be tiring, tour guides can be pricey, and some places are incredibly remote.
Like many places in Africa, you might run into a few hustlers or scammers. It’s not overwhelming, but I’d definitely recommend having a bit of travel experience under your belt before visiting somewhere as offbeat as Mauritania.
Quick Travel Facts
- Languages: Arabic (official), Hassaniya Arabic dialect is widely spoken. French is commonly used in cities.
- Currency: Mauritanian ouguiya (MRU)
- Travel plugs: Type C, D, and E; standard voltage is 220V.
- Religion: Islam (Sunni). Religion plays a big role in daily life.
- Visa: Apply for e-visa online before entering Mauritania – here. The e-visa costs €55 or $60 and must be paid on arrival in Mauritania in exact cash in Euros or US dollars – change is not given.
Arabic & Basic French Phrases
French is widely spoken in cities, but Arabic (especially Hassaniya Arabic) is the national language. Here are a few useful phrases in both Arabic and French:
| English | French | Arabic (Transliteration) |
| Hello | Bonjour | السلام عليكم (As-salamu alaykum) |
| Thank you | Merci | شكراً (Shukran) |
| Please | S’il vous plaît | من فضلك (Min fadlik) |
| How much does it cost? | Combien ça coûte ? | بكم هذا؟ (Bikam hādhā?) |
| Where is…? | Où est…? | أين…؟ (Ayna…?) |
| I don’t speak French well | Je ne parle pas bien français | لا أتحدث الفرنسية جيداً (La atahaddath al-faransiyya jayyidan) |
| Do you speak English? | Parlez-vous anglais ? | هل تتحدث الإنجليزية؟ (Hal tatahaddath al-inglīziyyah?) |
| Water | L’eau | ماء (Mā’) |
| Food | La nourriture | طعام (Taʿām) |
| Hotel | L’hôtel | فندق (Funduq) |
Top Things To Do In Mauritania
Below is a list of what I consider the best activities to do in Mauritania, to the best of my knowledge! I’ve visited the majority of these locations and absolutely loved the experience. As for the others, they’re places I can’t wait to check out when I return.
1. Ride the Iron Ore Train
One of the first things on my hit list when arriving in Mauritania was to ride the Iron Ore Train through the desert.
It was inspired by a story my dad told me – about his trip some ten years earlier, hauling his motorbike onto the top of the carriages and riding along the border through the night to Nouadhibou.
I knew it was going to be a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, and it truly was. It’s rough, dusty, and absolutely epic.
2. Visit Chinguetti
Chinguetti is part of the Ancient Ksour of Ouadane, Chinguetti, Tichitt and Oualata – an incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site that served caravans crossing the Sahara around 800 years ago.
I first heard of Chinguetti on The Grand Tour (believe it or not), where Jeremy, James and Richard visited the desert city. I watched in amazement as they explored the ancient libraries and crumbling architecture and thought, “That’s a place I’d love to visit.”
3. Wander the Old Town of Ouadane
The city of Ouadane was completely off my radar when I visited Mauritania, so I missed it. But I met a wonderful French couple at a hotel in Nouakchott who had just returned from there.
They had such excellent things to say, and since it’s part of the Ancient Ksour UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s definitely somewhere that deserves a spot on your Mauritania bucket list.
This lesser-visited historic site is a centre of Islamic culture – I imagine similar to Chinguetti – where a traditional way of life still thrives, built around nomadic roots.
4. Swim in the Oasis of Terjit
My favourite spot in Mauritania by far – make sure this place is on your itinerary!
Terjit is a hidden palm-fringed oasis surrounded by desert cliffs. It feels like a dream, with a refreshing breeze blowing through the trees and rattling the leaves while the birds chirp.
Although Mauritania has a number of desert oases, Terjit is the most popular – and from what I understand, also the easiest to get to. That said, getting there isn’t exactly easy, and I was the only one alongside two others there.
It’s a dreamy place, sheltered between a canyon. You barely notice the date trees until you arrive, but palm trees there are! The oasis is a haven for wildlife and the local community, and honestly, one of the most unique places I’ve ever visited.
5. Explore the Adrar Plateau
After befriending two Polish guys I met at the Terjit Oasis (we later rode the train together), we first crossed the Adrar Plateau in the most rickety, rustbucket of a sedan.
It’s a dramatic landscape – lots of rocks, sand dunes, and open horizon views, with the most random little stone towns thrown in.
Some people say it’s similar to Iceland. I haven’t been to Iceland myself, so I can’t compare, but the Adrar Plateau was stunning.
6. Visit Banc d’Arguin National Park
Okay, so I missed this one on my trip, too, but Banc d’Arguin is another UNESCO World Heritage Site and totally deserves a spot on this list.
From what I’ve read, it’s a peaceful and surreal spot to watch migrating birds along the Atlantic Coast. A mixture of sand dunes, shallow waters, swamps and islands makes this a really special place in terms of biodiversity and landscape.
7. Check out the Camel Market in Nouakchott
While I wouldn’t recommend staying long in Nouakchott, the camel market is a unique stop. Since most flights into Mauritania land in the capital, it’s worth adding a few popular sights before beelining inland – and the camel market is definitely one of them.
It’s dusty, chaotic, and smells exactly how you’d imagine – but it’s also fascinating. Expect herds of hundreds of camels, a lot of shouting, and an interesting insight into local trade. I’ve never seen anything quite like it.
🌟 My top pick >> Explore Nouakchott on this private guided door-to-door tour of the nation’s capital. Visit markets, mosques, the port, the beach, and the National Museum of Mauritania, sip Mauritanian mint tea, and learn about the history of the region.
8. Camp in the Sahara
No trip into the heart of the Sahara is complete without a night under the stars. The good thing is that it’s easy to do – whether it’s simply camping near Terjit or heading deeper into one of the most remote regions on Earth.
What I loved most? The stars. With no light pollution, the sky is a blanket of twinkling stars. It’s surreal and otherworldly. A must while you’re in this part of the world!
Offbeat Places I Want To Visit That You Might Too
I haven’t been to these spots, but they are places that I think could be super interesting and where I would like to visit should I return to Mauritania.
Therefore, I thought sharing them with you would help make this Mauritania travel guide even better and give you even more ideas.
9. Guelb er Richat (Eye of the Sahara)
Deep in the Adrar region, the Eye of the Sahara is a huge, mysterious crater-like formation. It’s best seen from above, like from space, where its enormity can really be appreciated.
That said, I actually think it could be quite a magical feeling to reach the crater, the journey into the desert being the highlight of this expedition rather than the destination.
10. Azoueiga Sand Dune
On route to Atar (I missed this stop, only discovering it after my trip), Azoueiga is the longest sand dune in Mauritania and Africa in general. It’s said to be a beautiful spot for desert camping and watching the sunset.
11. Mhaireth Oasis
Close by Terjit is the village of Mhaireth. It’s one of the largest oases in the Adrar region, and although it’s missing the enclosed, cosy charm of Terjit, it still looks pretty amazing.
I think, although not one hundred per cent sure, that we drove through this village on the way to Chinguetti.
With bathing pools squashed between canyons and the widespread palm trees, the village is a striking place to visit.
12. Ben Amera Monolith
Another natural wonder. As the largest monolith in all of Africa, and the second largest in the world, it’s probably going to be worth a visit, especially if you’re into huge granite obscurities!
I’ve seen videos of people climbing to the top, but it does look a little dangerous with the smooth surface, high winds and sands; if you plan to, just be careful. It’s another great spot for camping under the stars.
Insider tip >> As for visiting, the iron ore train stops at Tmeimichat, a small village about 5km from the monolith; the train doesn’t stop here every time. There is a military/security checkpoint between the train tracks and the monolith, but it is otherwise deserted.
13. Zerga mountain range
Between Terjit and Chinguetti, the Ez Zerga Mountain is said to be a great place for hiking with some beautiful views over the horizon. It looks stunning, and if you’ve got lots of time, hiking to the peak could be a visually rewarding experience.
The mountain range is a sandstone formation with the nickname of the two-coloured mountains. From what I’ve read, the area is filled with plants and desert wildlife.
Moving out of the Adrar region, the next few places are in the Tagant region, south of the Adrar Plateau and accessed via a separate road.
Pro tip >> Interestingly, the Tagant region is best known for its date season, which runs from June to August, which is the highlight of the year when festivals are held.
14. Ksar el Barka
If you want to visit an abandoned city, buried within the sand, then the first place to visit in the region is Ksar el Barka. It’s an isolated and atmospheric desert ruin, hard to reach but fascinating.
Close by is Guelta Matmata, home to an isolated group of Nile crocodiles.
15. Tidjikja
Often referred to as the most important date oases in Mauritania, the remote town is filled with old-world charm, date palms, and with few tourists, it’s somewhere to add to the list!
Tidjikja is worth visiting for the old town, market and old mosque and is a fantastic place to camp for the night.
16. Tichitt & Oualata UNESCO Sites
Both Tichitt and Oualata are part of the ancient Ksour UNESCO World Heritage Site in Mauritania (along with Chinguetti and Ouadane). Accessibility can be challenging, but they are important cultural sites to visit.
Home to traditional stone houses, a history museum and a local market, Tichitt can be a culturally enriching stop.
Oualata, on the other hand, is often referred to as the most beautiful city in southern Mauritania. It’s a historically important place with impressive architecture and influences stemming from its Mali Empire heritage and trans-Saharan trade route.
Visit the Manuscript Museum for a dose of culture or ride a camel and admire the beautiful painted buildings.
Useful Books
- Bradt Mauritania Travel Guide: A comprehensive guide to Mauritania, exploring the country in depth.
- West Africa Travel Guide by Lonely Planet: a small introduction to the region, including eighteen other countries in West Africa
- The Desert and the Drum: The only Mauritanian novel to be translated into English, providing insights into tribal hierarchy in Mauritania.
Enjoying this blog? All my content is free, but I do spend a lot of time in coffee shops. If you’re finding my content helpful and would like to buy me a coffee, I’d love that! Thank you 🤗
Best-Rated Day Trips In Mauritania
If you’re travelling in Mauritania and want to join a day trip or two, below are three of the highest-rated Mauritania experiences.
- Nouakchott Explorer: Private full-day tour of the capital to discover the top attractions, including the National Museum of Mauritania, Fish Market and Camel Market, and learn about Mauritania’s culture and heritage from a local guide.
- 8-Day Tour in Mauritania: This tour is a great option if you prefer to visit Mauritania with an organised tour rather than solo travel. All the major stops from Nouakchott to Noudhibou are included, including the iron ore train.
- 10-day Tour of the Adrar Region: For a longer, more in-depth trip that includes all the above and extra stops like the Eye of the Sahara, Monolith of Ben Amera and Banc d’Arguin National Park, this tour is the best option if you want a guided experience.
Suggested Itineraries: Mauritania Road Trips & Backpacking Routes
I suggest spending at least 10 days in Mauritania; however, if you’re passing through quickly (like I was) as part of a larger backpacking itinerary, you can visit my top sites in five days – this is what I did.
For the five-day itinerary, centre your trip around the Adrar region, visiting Terjit, Chinguetti and riding the iron ore train to Nouadhibou.
I don’t recommend staying too long in Nouakchott, but as Mauritania’s capital, it’s where you’ll likely fly into the country. A visit to the camel fair, national museum and fish market are fun activities to fill a day or two.
I loved Terjit, and recommend spending at least a day here; although, two days would be more relaxing. After Terjit, I suggest arranging transport to Chinguetti to check out the ancient city of knowledge, which is suffering from desertification – they told me it might not be habitable within 50 years!
Finish the trip with a ride on the iron ore train from Choum to Nouadhibou; this will take at least 14 hours of actual journey time, possibly longer. This doesn’t account for waiting time, which can be hours!
If you want to explore further, you’ll need more time.
- 10 Days: With the additional 5 days, I recommend making a stop at the Azoueiga Sand Dune, Ouadane and Ben Amera Monolith.
- 2 Weeks: Add the Eye of the Sahara and hike the Ez Zerga mountain.
- 3+ Weeks: Go full offbeat and include a visit to the Tagant region – Ksar el Barka, Tidjikja, Tichitt & Oualata on top of the Adrar region.
Mauritania Road Trip Route
Suggested budget overlanding loop from Nouakchott to Nouadhibou via the Tagant region and Adrar region, including the iron ore train.
Nouakchott (2 days) → Azoueiga (1 day) → Ksar el Barka (stop) → Tidjikja (2 days) → Tichitt (1 day)→ Oualata (1 day) → Nema (1 day) → Ayoun el Atrous (stop) → Kiffa (1 day) → Rachid (stop) → Terjit/Mhairith (3 days) → Ez Zerga (1 day) → Chinguetti (1 day) → Ouadane (1 day) → Eye of Sahara (3 days) → Zouérat (iron ore train + 2 days) → Nouadibou (1 day).
The main roads in Mauritania, that is, the N2 coastal road and the N1 and N3 inland roads, are okay to drive, but any diversion can be challenging due to poor road conditions. Just keep this in mind if you’re self-driving.
If you have a vehicle and plan to ride the iron ore train, you’ll need to reach Zouerat to load your vehicle onto the train. This cannot be done at any other stop.
Hitchhiking is normal in remote areas, and although I didn’t do this, locals offer rides to backpackers.
CAUTION: The eastern territories are considered unsafe by the FCDO and are on the red list. It’s advised not to travel to these areas. Some of the villages and sites within the Tagant region on this road trip fall within this zone: Oualata, Nema and Ayoun el Atrous.
That said, from what I’ve been reading from other backpackers, they have experienced no problems visiting these places. However, I do not recommend wandering from the main road that runs between them.
The Mauritanian/Mali border is at high risk of terrorism, kidnappings and organised crime, so it’s advised that all travel to areas within 25km of the Malian border, including Khabou, should be avoided.
The same goes for the Western Sahara/Mauritanian border. Of course, since the iron ore train rides along the border, it’s pretty impossible to avoid this area if you plan to ride the train.
Zourate falls on the line between amber and red; however, I’ve not read anything to suggest it’s unsafe for tourists looking to jump on the iron ore train.
You can read more in my guide about travelling safely in Mauritania.
Insider Tips For Mauritania
- It’s so important to take multiple copies of your passport (I had 20 copies and ran out – so take more). There are checkpoints scattered throughout the country, and you’ll be asked to provide your fiche when stopped, which is a photocopy of your passport. If you don’t have one, the officer will need to write down all your passport information, which can take a long time. Sometimes, they take a photo, which is lucky.
- Mauritania is not a country to visit if you like things to run on time and smooth plans. The capital can be chaotic, but it’s still laid-back. Patience is key for a successful trip; embrace slow travel and make sure you leave plenty of time to reach attractions.
- Hiring local drivers can get expensive. In Terjit, I got caught out. Short on time and without prior organisation, there was only one option to reach Chinguetti and Choum (having missed the morning bus), which quickly became very costly. If you’re using public transport, leave enough time in your itinerary, and if you’re hiring a driver, get a few quotes before setting off from Noackchott.
- Google Maps isn’t always reliable; it’s best to use the iOverlander App or ask the locals. In turn, learn some French or Arabic! iOverlander is better for offbeat destinations when compared to Google Maps. It was a lifesaver for my dad and me while we were road tripping. Remember to download offline maps and translation apps.
- I definitely recommend getting a local SIM! Alternatively, purchase an e-SIM; I regularly use Airalo. Generally speaking, the internet is notoriously bad in Mauritania. Outside of both Nouakchott and Nouadhibou, the Wifi and internet data are unreliable or non-existent.
- Cash is king, and ATMs are limited even in the capital. You won’t find anywhere that accepts cards outside of Nouakchott or Nouadhibou. The most popular bank to withdraw cash is Société Générale.
- Alternatively, Mobile Money is used; look into apps such as Wave and Orange Money, both of which are used in Mauritania. It’s a good idea to carry small bills for street purchases.
- Mauritania is a dry country, and all consumption of alcohol is strictly forbidden.
- Accommodation options within Nouakchott range from basic guesthouses to more comfortable hotels, but outside of the capital, you’ll struggle to find anything more than basic guesthouses – campsites and guesthouses are most common. I suggest booking in advance, especially during peak travel seasons: November to February.
- Nouakchott is the capital and has an international airport, but Nouadhibou also has international flights. Atar (the capital of the Adrar region) has direct flights from Paris and some other French cities.
Mauritania Travel Costs & Budgeting
I know when I think of Mauritania, I think budget-friendly – and in some ways, it really is. But Mauritania is one of those countries that can be super affordable and surprisingly expensive. It’s an interesting paradox I noticed throughout much of West Africa.
Keep in mind that the economic reality for many locals is incredibly tough. Wages are low, job opportunities are limited, and tourism is a small industry. With less competition, prices, especially for services, can sometimes feel a bit inflated.
This is why things like hiring a guide or private driver might cost more than you expect.
That said, don’t let this put you off – there are definitely ways to save money. Street food and local restaurants are really cheap. Entry fees for attractions like museums and sites are usually minimal, and public transport is super budget-friendly too. Market souvenirs are also affordable, but you’ll need to haggle to get a fair price.
Accommodation is cheap if you don’t mind keeping it simple. Outside the capital, most places are pretty basic anyway. Auberges are your best bet for budget-friendly stays – they’re usually no-frills with a bit of a hostel vibe.
So, although Mauritania can be a very affordable place to travel, not every part of your trip will be cheap. Tours especially vary depending on where you want to go and what you want to do. The good news? You can usually find a guide willing to take you pretty much anywhere!
Daily Budget
✔️ A backpacking budget of £30 / $40 per day is sufficient, assuming you use public transport and stay in basic accommodation.
✔️Street meal/local restaurant/ Auberges: £2.50–£5.00 / $3.50–$7.00
✔️Coffee: £0.80 / $1.00
✔️ Shared minibus between cities: £8 / $11 (eg, 500 MRU Nouakchott to Terjit, 200 MRU Atar to Chinguetti)
✔️ Shared taxi within Nouakchott: £0.20 / $0.30
✔️ Auberge Accommodation: £15–30 / $20–$35 per night
✔️ Bargaining is part of life – don’t be shy!.
Pro tip >> Be cautious of fake currency when exchanging money on the streets. Use reputable exchange bureaux within the city centre or try changing at your hotel instead.
Accommodation Ideas
- Nouakchott: Auberge Triskell Hotel
- Terjit: Camp Chez Jamel
- Chinguetti: Auberge Zarga
- Ouadane: Auberge Vasque
Mauritania Travel Insurance
Mauritania travel insurance
When exploring countries like Mauritania and engaging in adventurous activities, it’s essential to prioritise your safety in unexpected situations. Having the right travel insurance is important. Check the best quote for Mauritania!
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What To Eat (& what you’ll actually find)
If truth be told, the food in Mauritania wasn’t all that great. I didn’t visit too many restaurants, and of those that I did, they were nothing to rave about. It was more the community atmosphere that made eating memorable.
On my way to Terjit, our bus stopped at Atar for lunch. By this time, I’d made friends with the other passengers, and they invited me to eat with them. We sat in the small room on the floor and ate Thieboudienne from a huge bowl.
I didn’t eat much as I was concerned about the hygiene, but it was the gesture of invitation that made the experience a joy.
One of the reasons the food is simple in Mauritania is due to their traditionally nomadic lifestyle and landscape. The barren plains and lack of settlement meant farming never took hold, and ingredients were limited.
- Thieboudienne (cheb-u-jen): A Senegalese dish inherited by the Mauritanian, which comprises spiced rice with fish and vegetables. It is a national dish.
- Mechoui: Slow-cooked roasted mutton or goat, often served for a special occasion.
- Couscous with camel meat: A local delicacy in desert towns – I had this in Nouakchott.
- Macaroni: Small pasta shapes with vegetables and meat. Along with Thieboudienne, it is probably the most common.
- Lakh: A sweet dish made from couscous, mixed with milk, sugar, and sometimes yoghurt.
- Dates: Commonly paired with milk or tea, they are a significant part of Mauritanian culture.
- Atay (Mauritanian mint tea): A sweet, strong tea that is poured in three rounds with a lot of foam.
Atay or At-tāy
My first experience of Atay in Mauritania was in Chinguetti. While exploring the crumbling ruins, I was invited to visit a small rooftop tea room and join our guide, driver, and a few others for a glass of deliciously sweet foamy tea.
(My actual very first experience was in Guinea, when my dad and I had to seek shelter in a local village – no electricity, round houses and bucket showers – after being unable to find accommodation for the night!)
Having atay is a meaningful pastime in Mauritania and other regions in West Africa. Sharing it is a gesture of hospitality and friendship, so I wasn’t going to miss out!
You’ll often be invited for atay while travelling around Mauritania. It’s polite to accept, but know it’s a long process, taking anything from half an hour to an hour to brew and drink, so ensure you have enough time!
Cultural Tips For Travellers
Mauritania is part of the Maghreb region, which is the western part of the Arab world. The inhabitants were known by Europeans as the Moors.
It’s a Muslim country, but I was still surprised at how some of the locals acted outside of the city. Take, for example, my ride from Nouakchott to Terjit in a shared taxi. The women were removing their headscarves in front of strangers.
Even so, I would imagine that this doesn’t typically happen, and as a woman travelling through Mauritania, I felt much more comfortable wearing a headscarf (I actually used a turban) while in public spaces. I recommend that you do so also.
It’s essential to respect the local customs. Modest clothing is necessary. Basically, unless you’re at a resort hotel/beach, it’s a good idea to cover your head, shoulders and knees.
The traditional attire for men is a wide blue dress called daraa, while the turban they wear is a shesh. You’ll see this attire worn loads throughout the country.
You should also know that there is no freedom of religion and that atheism is punished with the death sentence. So be careful what you say, probably best not to talk about politics either.
Ramadan is a holy month for Muslims. The dates vary by year and country. If you’re visiting during this time (I don’t recommend it), do not eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in public in the daytime, including in your car.
Most of the people I encountered were beyond friendly, although those in the capital and Nouadhibou can be a little hit and miss. As soon as you reach the Adrar region, expect warm, friendly smiles and greetings.
Politeness goes a long way. And remember that Mauritania is a dry country; alcohol is strictly forbidden.
Slavery in Mauritania
Something else to be aware of is that Mauritania still operates under a caste system, and this plays a big role in the country’s social structure. There are three main ethnic groups in Mauritania: White Moors, Black Moors, and Sub-Saharan groups.
- White Moors (Beidane): These are Mauritanians of Arab or Berber descent. They’re the dominant group politically and socially, and often come from wealthier or more powerful families.
- Black Moors (Haratin): These are the descendants of Black slaves who once lived under the White Moors. Many still work as labourers or in domestic roles, and sadly, the legacy of slavery is far from over.
- Sub-Saharan Ethnic Groups: These include Mauritanians from various African ethnicities – like the Wolof, Soninke, and Pulaar – mainly found in the south of the country, near the Senegalese border.
Unfortunately, the caste system still shapes a lot of everyday life in Mauritania, and while slavery was officially abolished (several times, in fact), it still exists in practice in some areas – especially in rural communities.
It’s a complex and sensitive topic, but one worth knowing about if you’re visiting. It gives you more context for the country’s history, its inequalities, and why some areas might feel so different depending on who you meet and where you go.
You might not see it on the surface as a tourist – but it’s there, woven into the social fabric, and it’s important to travel with awareness and respect.
Health & Safety On The Road
I felt Mauritania was safe to travel around, even as a solo female traveller. I never felt uncomfortable or worried; however, like anywhere, it helps to be prepared, especially when you’re heading off the beaten path!
Health Tips
- Yellow Fever Jab: It’s not mandatory to get this before entering if you’re coming from a country that is not at risk. However, you must have a certificate to prove you’ve had a yellow fever vaccination if you’re arriving from a country listed as a transmission risk. I think it’s a good idea to have this done nevertheless.
- Vaccines: Double-check you’re up to date with the basics (polio, hepatitis A/B, typhoid, tetanus, rabies). A quick chat with a travel nurse will sort you out or check online at Travel Health Pro for recommendations.
- Water: Don’t drink from the tap. Go for bottled or filtered water only. It’s important to stay hydrated; the desert heat can be brutal.
- Essentials to Pack: Oral rehydration sachets, antihistamines (for bites or mystery rashes), hand sanitiser, and a mini first-aid kit.
- Pharmacies: They are limited outside of cities, so stock up in Nouakchott.
Healthcare is limited outside of Nouakchott. If something serious happens, you’ll probably need to go private and pay cash upfront – even for emergencies. Ensure your travel insurance includes medical evacuation coverage, just in case.
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Safety Tips
- I felt safe in Mauritania. However, some areas are red-listed by the FCDO, which I think has turned many travellers away from visiting. Travel with common sense and listen to your gut feeling.
- Travel insurance can become invalid in certain areas under a travel warning. For more information, read my post on travel insurance.
- Police checkpoints are common: Be polite and patient, and carry copies of your photo ID (fiche).
- Politics: Protests do happen, especially in Nouakchott. They can turn fiery, and sometimes roads get blocked. Just avoid big crowds and check the news or gov.uk travel advice before heading out.
- Pickpocketing does happen in busy areas and markets – just stay alert.
- Don’t walk alone at night, especially in quiet or poorly lit areas and isolated beaches near Nouakchott and in the ‘Le Cinquième’ district. Be particularly careful in these places.
- Leave valuables at home: Don’t flash expensive stuff around and keep your bag close in crowds.
Real talk >> Keep in mind the CAUTION I noted above when visiting the eastern parts of the country. Most of the destinations on this Mauritanian travel guide fall into an amber zone as advised by the FCDO; however, the locations I’ve listed remain popular backpacking routes, and I’ve not heard of any incidents involving tourists.
It’s a caution. Keep the potential dangers in mind, but don’t let them deter you from visiting these areas if you feel secure in doing so.
Don’t let any of this put you off. I had no issues, apart from the occasional pushy street vendor. A friendly but firm “no thanks, not today” usually does the trick.
What To Pack (& What to Leave Behind)
Trousers and shirts are best to avoid unwanted attention. I made the mistake of having a boobtube on under a cardigan (although with trousers) in Noakchott while scouring the city for a SIM. I ended up in a building being looked at disapprovingly by the women working there.
It was the one incident that made me feel uncomfortable, to say the least, and I wasn’t even showing a lot of skin!
So when it comes to what to pack, you don’t need to pack your whole wardrobe, but there are definitely a few must-haves for a smooth trip.
With the Islamic culture and desert climate, opt for practical, lightweight clothing that’s respectable, ready for a mix of city life and dusty roads.
Here’s what I recommend packing:
- Lightweight clothes – Breathable fabrics are a lifesaver in the heat. Go for loose, long-sleeved tops and trousers to stay cool and avoid sunburn.
- Walking shoes or sturdy sandals – You’ll be exploring markets, villages and deserts. The comfier the better for longer wanders.
- Torch or headlamp – Power cuts are common, especially in rural areas.
- Mosquito net – If you’re heading off-grid or staying in simple accommodation, it’s a game-changer.
- Bug spray – Go strong (high DEET or natural oil-based).
- Money belt or hidden pouch – Petty theft and pickpocketing happen, especially in cities. Keep your passport, cash and cards tucked safely away.
- Hand sanitiser and wipes – Public loos and street food spots don’t always have soap or toilet paper.
- Power bank – For long journeys and unreliable electricity, this is a must-have!
- Headscarf or turban – I recommend wearing one in public spaces.
- Water Bottle – I always travel with a water bottle; this is my favourite as has a straw and screw lid.
(If you’re travelling on the iron ore train, you’ll need a separate packing list.)
Leave behind:
- Heavy clothes – You won’t need them.
- Revealing clothes – You won’t use them.
- Too many gadgets – Keep it simple and low-key. Flashy gear can attract attention.
- Hairdryers and high-voltage stuff – Most places have limited electricity or none at all.
- Alcohol – strictly prohibited.
When To Go To Mauritania
Mauritania’s weather is pretty consistent with a hot and dry desert climate. The landscape is arid and dusty, with high temperatures.
There is hardly any rainfall, and if it does rain, it tends to be in the south, with brief and intense thunderstorms, usually between July and September.
The average year-round temperature stays between 25-35ºC.
November to April – This is the best time to visit Mauritania. Mild days with cooler nights and less wind. Daytime temperatures range from 25°C to 30°C (77°F to 86°F), while nights can drop to around 10°C (50°F).
March and October – It begins to get hotter, especially inland, but it’s still manageable. I was backpacking in Mauritania in late April and early May and loved it – roads were solid (essential when driving a tuk-tuk!), but it was hot.
May to October – Extremely hot, especially during the day, where temperatures often exceed 40°C (104°F). Nights stay warm, usually around 25°C to 30°C (77°F to 86°F), so nighttime travel is best during this season.
Top tip: Avoid June to August, as the heat is too intense and can hinder travel plans.
Cultural Festivals & Traditional Events in Mauritania
Mauritania isn’t known for big, flashy festivals – but if you’re lucky with your timing, there are a few interesting events worth knowing about. That said, festivals here can be low-key, change dates, or happen without much notice, so it’s always worth asking locals once you arrive.
Here are a few that pop up in various regions:
El Guetna (Date Harvest Season)
This is probably the most widely celebrated “festival” in Mauritania. It marks the date palm harvest season – usually in late June to early July – especially in the oases of Adrar and Tagant.
Families gather to enjoy dates, tea, and cool evenings. It’s not a festival in the traditional sense, but if you’re around during Guetna, you’ll feel the shift in local life. It’s a great time to visit oasis towns like Terjit.
Nouakchott International Festival (TBC
This has been mentioned online as a multi-day summer music event in the capital, blending traditional Mauritanian music with international styles like reggae and folk. But I’ll be honest – I’ve never met anyone who’s actually been, and details are hard to confirm.
It may have happened in the past, but I wouldn’t plan your trip around it.
Camel Festivals (Varies)
Now this one makes sense. In nomadic culture, camels are a big deal, and there are occasional events in places like Atar or Chinguetti where communities gather for camel races or showcases.
These are usually local, informal, and not guaranteed to be on during your visit. But if you hear about one – go! It’s a proper slice of desert life.
Chinguetti Book Festival (Possibly Real, But Low-Key)
Supposedly held in late January, this small literature event celebrates Arabic and African writing. If it does happen, expect it to be very local – more of a cultural gathering than a big event – but it fits Chinguetti’s vibe. Ask around if you’re visiting then.
Festival of the Oases Ouadane (Unconfirmed)
I’ve seen this listed online, usually around October, with music, dance, and poetry celebrating oasis culture. Sounds amazing, but again, hard to verify. If you’re already in the region during that time, definitely check in with locals – you never know.
Festival of the Desert / Sahara International Festival (Very Unclear)
These pop up under different names and sound like similar events – mixes of Saharan music, poetry, and nomadic traditions in the Atar region.
Some travellers report attending something like this, often small, informal and community-run. Think more gathering than Glastonbury.
My advice? Don’t plan your trip around a festival – but if you’re there at the right time, be curious, ask around, and you might stumble into something memorable.
Responsible Travel In Mauritania
Travelling responsibly in Mauritania isn’t difficult – it just takes a bit of thought and respect for local customs.
Support local businesses wherever you can – that means hiring local guides, staying in family-run auberges, and buying handmade crafts or snacks from local stalls. Not only does it help the community, but you’ll also get a more authentic experience.
Always ask before taking photos of people, especially in more remote or traditional areas. Some people simply don’t want their photo taken, and that’s totally fair.
Water is extremely precious in Mauritania, especially in the desert. Avoid long showers and don’t waste water unnecessarily. A reusable water bottle and a filter or purification tablets are a good shout – they’ll save you money and reduce waste.
On that note, plastic pollution is becoming more of a problem across the region. Pack a reusable shopping bag and solid toiletries, where possible, to cut down on single-use plastics.
And lastly, don’t leave litter in the desert – it may feel like the middle of nowhere, but it stays around for years. If you bring it in, take it out.
Travelling slowly, choosing ethical experiences, and spending your money locally helps ensure your trip has a positive impact, for both you and the people who call Mauritania home.
Practical Tips & Advice: Mauritania Travel Guide
Apply for e-visa online before entering Mauritania – here. The e-visa costs €55 or $60 and must be paid on arrival in Mauritania in exact cash in Euros or US dollars – change is not given.
No, it’s best to stick to bottled or filtered water. Tap water isn’t safe to drink, and even locals usually boil it first.
In Mauritania, you’ll find shared taxis, bush taxis, and 4x4s. Roads are rough in places. I used the shared taxis, which are in essence minibuses; they tend to leave when full. I also used a private driver, who drove us around in an old, beat-up sedan!
Mauritanian uses the Mauritanian ouguiya (MRU). Cash is essential.
Nouakchott has ATMs that accept foreign bank cards, but they are scarce, and there are few ATMs or bank facilities in the rest of the country. Withdrawal limits can be low, and ATMs regularly run out of money.
Internet connectivity is very basic in Mauritania; it’s slow and patchy in rural areas.
It’s worth purchasing a local SIM to keep roaming costs down, but even in the capital, the signal is not so great.
Mostly yes, with common sense. Border zones can be unstable – check current advice.
Yes – but modest dress and confidence are key.
No. It’s illegal to import, buy, or consume alcohol.
That’s All For My Mauritania Travel Guide
We’ve made it to the end! Wooo, I hope that this Mauritania Travel Guide has been inspirational and provided you with the confidence to explore this amazing country.
I hope to have the chance to return to Mauritania, as there are still many places I’d love to visit, and the country is truly unique. If you’re planning a trip to Mauritania, I’d love to hear from you.
Let me know what you’re planning or if you’ve already been, how it went and where you went. And, if there’s anything missing from my Mauritania Travel Guide that you think I should add, I’d love to know!
Thank you for reading my post. You can find my latest stories and articles on my blog homepage here. Follow me on Instagram (@abigailcarolina.dalton) and Facebook to see what I’m getting up to and where my upcoming trips are!
