Is Mauritania Safe To Travel? Mauritania Travel Advice + Solo Female Travel

Are you wondering if Mauritania is safe for tourists? When I visited the country, I didn’t do much research into the potential dangers, and I’m lucky I didn’t because if I had, I might not have gone! 

If you have been researching and wondering if it’s somewhere you can visit, no doubt you’ve come across countless articles saying how unsafe and dangerous Mauritania is. The FCDO advise against all travel, and I read that terrorists are a growing concern alongside kidnappings and bombings. 

Well, I was in Mauritania with my dad for a while before deciding to backpack to the Adrar Region as a solo female traveller, and I’ll tell you right now—I had no issues and never felt unsafe. So, is Mauritania safe to travel to? If you ask me, I’ll tell you yes.

In this safety guide to Mauritania, I share my experience and views about visiting, including reasons why I think it’s safe and unsafe to travel there.

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Is Mauritania Safe To Travel?

I’m writing this post to provide you with travel advice on visiting Mauritania based on my own experience, which I totally understand might not be the same as everyone’s. I don’t want to say that there are no safety risks when travelling to Mauritania or discrediting other sources, but my experience was positive.

I didn’t research the country beforehand, which, like I said, was probably a good thing. All I knew was that I wanted to ride on the iron ore train and visit a desert oasis—two bucket list items I got to tick off during my time in the country.

Just before I left my dad in Nouakchott, I received a few messages from friends telling me I was being ridiculous for travelling further into the country, especially as a solo female traveller.

They mentioned active al-Qaeda terrorists and kidnappings happening in the Adrar region I was heading to, and they sent me a screenshot of a map from the FCDO stating the region was a No-Go and red zone. It wasn’t what I needed a couple of days before travel.

However, after talking with a few other travellers I met in the capital who had made a similar trip just days before, the consensus was overwhelmingly positive.

Not one person had encountered problems, and everyone agreed they had an incredible journey and never felt unsafe. 

So, into the desert, I went.

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My Experience In Mauritania | How Safe Is It?

I left Nouakchott on one of the public buses, heading to Terjit. If I’m honest, this was probably the most overwhelming part of the trip. It was a little chaotic trying to find the bus terminal, my dad and I driving through the capital at what appeared to be rush hour – not one of our finest moments. 

We got pulled over a few times at checkpoints. I mean, I’m not surprised; a white man and his daughter travelling around in a tuk-tuk in West Africa was always going to draw attention.

Once we arrived at the terminal, things didn’t really improve until I eventually managed to purchase the ticket for Terjit. The language barrier was the hardest part, but luckily, I had internet access and Google Translate!

I bought the ticket at one bus terminal, which I’m calling it, but it’s more like an office squashed in the middle of many other buildings on a busy high street. Afterwards, I was walked to another “terminal” to wait for the bus, which took about three hours until we set off. 

Even through the chaos, there were a lot of people around, selling, buying, shouting and so on. I can honestly say I never felt unsafe or uncomfortable, which I think is particularly important.

Mauritania is a Muslim country, and from what I’ve read, it’s said to be a strict Muslim country, but I didn’t really get this feeling either. 

Why didn’t I feel Mauritania was as strict a Muslim country as it’s believed to be?

It’s because of the women I met who, to my surprise, did not conform to my understanding of Islamic customs.

For example, the ladies I befriended during the bus journey took off their headscarves in the presence of men they didn’t know—a big no-no from what I understood. Another woman, who was my age, was unmarried and ran her own business in Chinguetti.

In Mauritania, the status and respect for women can be complex, reflecting traditional, religious, and modern influences. Traditionally, Mauritanian society is patriarchal. Women often play significant roles within the family and community, but have historically had less visibility in public and political life.

This complexity can make travelling as a solo female traveller challenging for some. However, I didn’t notice these issues too often, and the further I went inland, the less apprehensive I felt.

If anything, it was in Nouakchott and Nouadhibou that I felt the most concerned about being a woman, but even then, it wasn’t such an issue.

Of course, this is just my take on it, and it’s important to note that you might have a completely different experience.

I suggest covering your head with a scarf or turban when in public places as a sign of respect. I rarely took mine off when in public, which might be one of the reasons I was so well received.

So, is Mauritania safe? Why I felt safe travelling in Mauritania

The reasons I felt safe in Mauritania are simple. I was never harassed, disrespected, or treated any less than fellow male travellers. If anything, the people I met were friendly and chatty; Mauritanians are some of the most welcoming and talkative people I’ve met on my travels. 

During the bus journey, where I was cramped inside a minibus, or shared taxi, as they call them, I befriended the ladies sitting on my row and in front. Although we couldn’t fully understand one another, we communicated through gestures.

By the end of the six-hour journey, I had agreed to meet them the next day to get my hand henna; I was also invited to share a meal during our lunch stop and even shown the correct way to wrap my turban.

In Terjit, I slept alone in my tent, which was on the other side of the camp; this could have left me feeling vulnerable. However, the staff at Camp Chez Jemal welcomed and treated me wonderfully, and it never occurred to me that I was alone in the desert.

My journey to Chinguetti, an ancient city of knowledge, was fantastic. Even though I was with a guide and two backpackers I had befriended, the entire journey was friendly and respectful.

The only part of the trip I was a little apprehensive about was catching the iron ore train alone.

I was going to do it alone, and truth be told, I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t have encountered any problems, apart from probably needing a pee mid-journey. However, since I met two Polish guys to travel on the train with, I can’t say for sure.

The ultimate reason Mauritania is safe

It goes without saying that no one travels through the main areas of Mauritania without the authorities’ knowledge. This is because of the numerous checkpoints scattered throughout the country, I say checkpoints with a capital “S”.

These checkpoints are frequent and thorough, providing a vital security presence that helps ensure the safety of travellers. It’s the best way to maintain security and monitor who is moving through the region.

At each checkpoint, some only a few miles apart, I was always asked to show a fiche. A fiche is a photocopy of your passport, and you won’t be able to travel through Mauritania easily without it. 

If you don’t take photocopies, you will have to hand over your passport so the guards can write down the details, which can take ages. Sometimes, they take photos on their phones, but not always. Since I ran out, I know this from experience; it’s also really unfair to the other passengers who have to wait for you.

⭐ Pro tip >> My biggest tip is to ensure you print a lot of fiches. I took 20, and it wasn’t enough; 30 is likely a better number! Each checkpoint requires you to hand over a fiche, so having plenty on hand will make your journey smoother and save you from potential delays.

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Reasons Mauritania Is Said To Be Unsafe

I’m not sugar-coating this for you. As I mentioned above, there is room for concern when travelling to Mauritania; I just don’t think it’s as dangerous as it’s made out to be.

However, I think it’s important that I make you aware of why and where there are potential risks because going in blind, as I did, was probably not the best idea! 

Crime and scams

First up is the risk of crime and scams in Mauritania. 

The UK government states: “There have been thefts and robberies at knifepoint after dark on the unlit and isolated beaches at Nouakchott and in the ‘Le Cinquième’ district. Be particularly careful in these places.”

If you’re doing your research, you’ve likely come across similar statements: violent crime, rape and assault are on the rise, bandits pose a threat, and pickpocketing is common.

However, I would say that this is a risk in a lot of countries (maybe not the bandits) and is not specific to Mauritania. There are some areas even in London where I wouldn’t want to walk around after dark.

I didn’t encounter any form of crime during my visit to Mauritania, but then again, I wasn’t travelling around after dark.

As a solo female traveller in Mauritania, I would suggest covering your head, not travelling alone after dark, and remaining respectful of local customs. Mauritania is a dry state, so you’ll not need to worry about drinking too much.

As for scams, someone tried to scam me while buying credit at one of the small phone shops, but I think this was mainly due to my being a tourist and not a female.

Luckily, I knew what was going on and eventually got what I needed for the correct price. But aside from this, I didn’t encounter any issues.

I’ve read that places in Nouakchott, such as the Port du Peche, are hotspots for pickpockets. When visiting busy tourist areas, it’s crucial not to leave anything unattended and watch out for dodgy-looking people.

Mauritania is part of the Sahel Region

I had to do a little research on this, as before I visited Mauritania, I didn’t know this region even existed. However, numerous people mentioned the country was dangerous because it was part of the Sahel, so I did a little digging.

The Sahel is a biogeographical region in Africa. It’s neither tropical nor temperate and falls within the transition zone between the humid Sudanian savannas and the drier Sahara.

The area has a hot, semi-arid climate that is facing severe desertification and droughts. Unfortunately, this has led to the rise of various coups, insurgencies, and terrorism within the Sahel countries.

Mauritania is one of these countries, alongside Nigeria, Mali, Chad, Sudan, Niger, Senegal, Burkina Faso, Eritrea and South Sudan.

Terrorist and kidnapping threats

There is a risk of terrorism and kidnapping within the Sahel. However, even though the Sahel is perhaps one of the most troubled regions in the world and is known to be the epicentre of active terrorist violence, the vast majority of Mauritania remains safe. It’s really only at the borders that problems have been reported.

I’ll put this down to those checkpoints I mentioned earlier. Although frustrating for us tourists (especially if you’ve run out of fiche), they ensure terrorists aren’t freely roaming around the country.

In the past, Mauritania has been victim to a few terrorist attacks, which have ultimately led to a decline in tourism. However, the country hasn’t suffered an attack since 2011—that’s over a decade ago!

Unfortunately, Mauritania remains a controversial country to visit, much like Sierra Leone, another off-the-beaten-path destination I highly recommend visiting.

The last terrorist attacks occurred in 2007, where four French tourists were killed; in 2008, where the Israeli Embassy was targeted by gunmen in Nouakchott; and in 2009, where a suicide bomber at the French Embassy injured three people.

Health Concerns

Contrary to online resources (I read a rather fascinating tale in a World Nomads article), there are no severe health concerns concerning Mauritania. The article states that malaria, dengue fever, yellow fever, cholera, tuberculosis, and other diseases are prevalent.

Yet, according to the Centre for Disease Control and Prevention, the only health risks in Mauritania are Polio and Measles!

That said, one disease to keep an eye on is the Rift Valley Fever. The World Health Organisation also states: “There has been a constant circulation of RVF virus in Mauritania with the country experiencing previous outbreaks in 1987, 2010, 2012, 2015 and 2020…mostly among animal breeders, including 23 deaths [in 2022]”. 

Other than the above, I would certainly stay away from anything other than bottled water. If you must drink tap water, make sure that shiz has been boiled to death.

Avoid ice cubes (if you can find any), but ensure you drink enough water to stay hydrated. One of the biggest concerns is dehydration due to the high temperatures.

Mauritania travel insurance

When exploring countries like Mauritania and engaging in adventurous activities, it’s essential to prioritise your safety in unexpected situations. Having the right travel insurance is important. Check the best quote for Mauritania!

Who might feel uneasy in Mauritania?

I feel like I should mention homosexuality since it’s officially illegal in Mauritania and is a capital offence. If you are travelling as a couple, you need to be careful about displaying public affection, gay or otherwise; remember, Mauritania is a Muslim country, and PDAs aren’t well tolerated.

That being said, it’s unlikely you’ll be questioned on your sexuality. I’ve not heard any negative experiences from other travellers, although I’m sure there have been some instances. It’s best to keep kissing and holding hands to a minimum while in public areas.

Is Mauritania safe for solo female travellers?

I backpacked Mauritania as a solo female traveller and had no problems. Although I was only alone for a small part of the journey, which generally happens when travelling solo, my experience was overwhelmingly positive. 

Was travelling alone around Mauritania completely safe? There were elements I was worried about, such as catching the iron ore train alone, but the rest of the trip around Maurtnaia was safe, yes.

I’ll repeat it, just to ensure it sinks in. Wear a headscarf, dress modestly, don’t go around after dark, don’t get in unregistered taxis, and be respectful of local customs. Plan your journey as much as you can ahead of time and travel during daylight hours.

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Areas In Mauritania That Are Dangerous

I recommend against visiting two areas in Mauritania: the Mali and Algerian borders.

Along the Mail border and especially to the north, terrorists have been known to cross the border into Mauritania. The same goes for the Algerian border, although it’s doubtful you’ll be visiting these areas since they are very remote. 

There are also countless checkpoints between there and the popular tourist sites in the Adrar region, so I doubt you’ll even be able to reach the border without getting turned around, and nothing’s coming through either.

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Things To Think About BEFORE Visiting Mauritania

These are just some things that came up during my trip that I wanted to share with you because I thought they might help you plan a trip better.

Entry requirements

As a British citizen, I required a visa to enter Mauritania. It was 2,500 MRU at the border. We also had to get a vehicle pass (laissez-passer) for 400 MRU, but you won’t need this unless you bring a vehicle into the country.

Is Mauritania safe to get around?

Travelling around Mauritania is generally safe. Although there isn’t a developed tourist infrastructure, the two main roads serving the coast and Adrar region are in good condition. Buses run frequently between the main towns, especially between Nouakchott, Nouadhibou, and Atar.

That said, road conditions can deteriorate rapidly. At times, we drove over sand-covered roads, which were both exciting and dangerous. I wouldn’t recommend moving away from the main roads in anything other than a 4×4; however, we were in a beat-up sedan. Luckily, our driver was experienced in navigating the sandy patches.

As previously mentioned, you will need photocopies of your passport to get through the checkpoints. Don’t worry if you run out, as you’ll still be able to move around the country, but it will take longer.

I noticed most backpackers were travelling independently and using shared taxis (public buses), but it’s also popular to hire a private driver to travel around Mauritania; both options are safe. If you’re searching for the safest way to visit Mauritania, consider joining a group tour.

FCDO advises against travel to Mauritania

It’s probably apparent by now that the FCDO advises against all travel to certain parts of Mauritania. This travel warning can affect insurance policies. 

For instance, with SafetWing Insurance, “evacuation from unrest” is not covered. It’s essential to understand what your policy covers when visiting countries the FCDO advises against.

That said, not all of Mauritania is a red zone. At the time of writing, the west coast of Mauritania is green, which is an improvement. This includes the capital Nouakchott.

However, Tiris Zemmour, Adrar, Tagant, Hodh el Gharbi, Assaba, and Guidimaka provinces are amber with a travel warning of FCDO advising against all but essential travel, and eastern Mauritania is a red zone: advice against all travel.

For me, the best part of Mauritania was the Adrar Region.

Is the Mauritania-Western Sahara Border Safe?

The FCDO advises against all travel to areas within 25km of the Mauritania-Western Sahara border…but if you’re hoping to jump on the famed iron ore train, you’ll be directly on top of the border, so what are you going to do?

I know what I did.

The mining town of Zourate, where the train departs, is in a red zone, but I joined the desert train in the border town of Choum, which is still in the red zone, although closer west. I didn’t notice any threats or anything out of the ordinary.

We arrived in Choum rather late and ended up catching the evening train and riding through the night. I saw no potential dangers even though we were there during nighttime.

Local laws in Mauritania

Finally, it’s worth becoming acquainted with the local laws and customs in Mauritania to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip. 

Mauritania is a conservative Muslim country, so dress modestly. I always wear trousers and a long-sleeved shirt; I suggest wearing loose clothing and showing as little skin as possible. For men, avoid wearing shorts in public. 

The sale and consumption of booze is prohibited, but there are some places in the capital where you can buy it; however, I would respect this rule and not seek out alcohol. Public displays of affection are also frowned upon and should be avoided. 

Also, remember that photographing government buildings, military sites, and infrastructure is illegal. It’s best to always ask permission before taking photos of locals, especially women. 

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Final Thoughts | Is Mauritania Safe to Travel?

Travelling safely in Mauritania is definitely possible if you are well-prepared and respectful of local customs. Despite the warnings and potential risks, my experience in Mauritania was overwhelmingly positive.

I found the people to be friendly, the landscapes breathtaking, and the cultural experiences unforgettable. The checkpoints, although frequent, provided a sense of security, and being mindful of local laws and customs ensured I had no major issues.

If you’re considering a trip to Mauritania, I would say go for it. Just be sure to take the necessary precautions: have plenty of fiches, dress modestly, avoid travel after dark, and respect the local customs.

Travelling with a trusted guide or in a group can also improve your safety and experience if you’re concerned. 

With a bit of preparation and an open mind, you can enjoy the incredible adventures that Mauritania has to offer. So, is Mauritania safe to travel to? In my opinion, absolutely yes.