Travel to Chinguetti, Mauritania | A Hidden Gem in the Sahara

Welcome to my Chinguetti travel guide! During my two-month road trip through West Africa, I made a quick side trip into the heart of the Mauritanian Sahara. I left my dad and the tuk-tuk we’d been travelling in behind to explore the depths of the country. My plan was simple: a visit to a desert oasis and the ancient city before jumping on the legendary desert train – I was beyond excited.

Chinguetti, known as the City of Libraries, is an age-old gem nestled deep in the Sahara. Its famous libraries, home to countless ancient manuscripts, and crumbling sandstone buildings make it a fantastic, offbeat place to visit. 

Even though my visit was brief, it was clear that the city was once a prominent hub for scholarship and learning. These days, it’s eerily quiet; even so, I really enjoyed my time in Chinguetti. It’s not easy to travel to, and the heat can be intense. However, the tranquillity of the desert and its cultural significance make it a destination worth visiting.

In this post, I’m sharing all the essential information I learned during my travels to Chinguetti to help you plan your trip.

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Travel To Chinguetti

The most essential piece of information I can give you is to be patient. Mauritania is an off-the-beaten-path travel destination, and you’ll need to take your time. Travel to Chinguetti, while straightforward once you’re on the move, can be long and tiresome. The most challenging part is finding the bus terminal or arranging a private driver.

The hotel staff in Nouakchott, Mauritania’s capital, were excellent at providing recommendations on private drivers. If I had been in a group, I would have considered this option. However, travelling solo, I was keen to catch the local bus to keep costs down.

You won’t find the city overrun with tourists. According to a 2013 census, Chinguetti has a population of 4,800, which isn’t very many, considering the city is over a thousand years old! Instead, I saw a town steeped in history, preserved in its ancient libraries and unique architecture. 

When we visited, our guide highlighted the distinct blend of Arabic and Berber influences in the city’s design. The sandstone buildings, with their clever cooling design, reflect the city’s intellectual past, while the narrow streets and ancient mosques add to its charm.

After talking with our guide and the local community, it was clear they are proud of their heritage. You’ll find them eager to share stories of Chinguetti’s significance as a centre of Islamic learning and trade.

Overall, my trip to Chinguetti was fascinating. Initially, we didn’t want a local guide, but our driver recommended an affordable friend. It was probably the best decision we made during the trip. He was able to translate for us, and sharing his insights made the experience more memorable. Unless you speak French, having a guide is a worthwhile investment.

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Getting To Chinguetti In Mauritania

Since I was exploring Chinguetti as part of a more extensive itinerary, my first stop was the desert oasis of Terjit. As luck would have it, I met two Polish guys who I ended up travelling with to Chinguetti, and we caught the iron ore train together.

With this in mind, my plan changed slightly. In the end, the three of us travelled from Terjit Oasis to Chinguetti and then on to Choum, where we caught the train with a private driver instead of using public transport as I had planned.

Before we decided on the private driver, I was told there was a morning bus that departed Terjit heading to Chinguetti. The staff at Camp Chez Jamal (where I suggest staying if you’re visiting Terjit) will provide all the information for bus times. As far as I know, there is only one bus a day coming from Atar in the morning.

As for the private driver, this is where things get a little more complicated. Since Mauritania is such an offbeat travel destination, travel tourism is limited. There was not much infrastructure in place for tourists, which meant we were at the mercy of the local tour guide.

Since we hadn’t pre-planned the trip, negotiating prices for the journey to Chinguetti was difficult—actually, non-existent. With no other options around and limited time, bargaining flew out the window, and we had to pay the price given. The bus was looking all the sweeter by this time!

If you know you’re going to be travelling to Chinguetti, I’d advise getting some quotes through your hotel in Nouakchott if you prefer a private driver. For the three of us, a last-minute private driver cost €300 to go from Terjit to Chinguetti to Choum in one day.

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Exploring Chinguetti

Chinguetti is not a destination that comes up on many people’s travel bucket lists, but it’s a fantastic place to explore if you’re looking for somewhere unique and captivating.

The drive to Chinguetti was pretty incredible. Packed inside the car, which looked like it could overheat at any moment, we crossed the Adrar Highlands. The scenery was barren and vast but beautiful in its own right.

The final stretch towards Chinguetti was a challenging drive, crossing sandy patches over an already uneven road. I thought the car would get stuck, but by some miracle, it didn’t. We passed nomadic camps and plenty of camels before reaching the somewhat unimpressive entrance of Chinguetti.

During my visit, we walked around the old town, visited one of the city’s many libraries, and enjoyed freshly brewed tea in a small tea room overlooking the city.

History and significance

Chinguetti is steeped in history and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. However, despite this status, many are concerned that the expanding desert will soon engulf the city, causing its heritage to be lost forever.

Before the Sahara began encroaching, Chinguetti was a thriving hub for trade, scholarship, and Islamic learning, earning it the nickname “City of Libraries.” Its significance was mainly due to its strategic location along ancient trans-Saharan trade routes, making it a crucial stopover for caravans crossing the desert. Over time, merchants, scholars, and pilgrims would converge in Chinguetti, exchanging goods, ideas, and knowledge, which led to the formation of numerous libraries.

Over the centuries, Chinguetti’s importance as a religious and educational centre continued to grow, making it one of the major cultural and intellectual hubs of the Sahara region. Unfortunately, today, it appears more like an abandoned relic than a bustling centre of activity.

The unique architecture

The architectural landscape of Chinguetti is filled with ancient elements that seamlessly blend into the surrounding desert environment. The old town is a maze of winding streets lined with traditional sandstone buildings and one of the most striking parts of Chinguetti.

The use of locally sourced sandstone and the incorporation of traditional design motifs, such as arched doorways and intricate tile work, create a cohesive and visually stunning architectural landscape that makes Chinguetti captivating.

Let’s not forget about the city’s crowning glory—the Great Mosque of Chinguetti, which dates back to the 13th century. It stands as a testament to the region’s deep-rooted Islamic heritage. As a non-muslim, I wasn’t able to go inside, but it is possible to walk around the outside.

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Best Activities & Attractions In Chinguetti

After spending a few hours roaming around the streets of Chinguetti, one of my favourite attractions was the old town itself. It’s like a little labyrinth of crumbling buildings with tiny passageways and narrow lanes. The entrances to most buildings are hidden within the stones and half-buried in sand.

The sandy streets were wonderfully atmospheric but eerily quiet. I didn’t see any other tourists during our visit, but I did notice that the city was half swallowed by the desert, and at times, it felt like a desolate town frozen in time.

A highlight of my visit was undoubtedly the old library we visited. Shockingly, the manuscripts we were shown were dumped inside a small cabinet. It wasn’t the well-kept archive I had envisioned for such precious documents. The shelves were messily stacked high with thick folders, which was a little surprising.

Even so, the librarian captivated us with stories, beliefs and traditions from a bygone age. Sitting on the floor, he picked up items like writing tablets and ancient cooking instruments, explaining their uses before showing us the manuscripts. 

The library I visited is owned by Saif al Islam al Ahmed Mahmoud, which has 700 manuscripts preserved in its family library. The Habott family holds another of the city’s historic libraries, which boasts over 1400 manuscripts.

Chinguetti once had thirty libraries, but now only thirteen remain, and only five are open to the public. As I wandered through the old town, I also enjoyed admiring the design of the Great Mosque of Chinguetti. 

What about travel outside Chinguetti?

Beyond the enchanting city of Chinguetti, the Sahara offers unique experiences for adventurous travellers. One thing I regret is not dedicating more time to exploring the desert. It’s possible to join a multi-day trekking expedition or opt for camel rides or donkey rides into the dunes.

Sitting on the dunes while watching the sunsets is famed; Neyanna is the largest and most popular sand dune in the area, 5km away (Google Maps). Sandboarding is possible, and traditional bedouin camping under the stars are all activities I wish I had researched a little more before going.

Further into the desert is the White Desert, which contrasts with the yellow sand and is very near Neyanna Dunes. The UNESCO city of Ouadane (Google Maps) is said to be worth a visit, and even further into the Sahraha is the Eye of Africa, also known as the Richat Structure (Google Maps), a geological formation caused by a meteorite impact.

Experiencing the local culture and traditions

One of the best things I noticed about Chinguetti was the welcoming smiles of the locals. After visiting the library, we decided to stop by a tea room and join our guide, driver, and two locals for a glass of tea. Tea is an important pastime in Mauritania, and sharing it is a gesture of hospitality and friendship. 

You’ll often be invited for tea while travelling around Mauritania. It’s polite to accept, but know it’s a long process, taking anything from half an hour to an hour to brew, so ensure you have enough time!

I also made a quick stop at a local arts and crafts shop owned by a lovely lady who had a collection of artisanal goods, including stunning textiles, leatherwork, and silver jewellery. There are also local markets and workshops in Chinguetti; unfortunately, we weren’t able to stop by any due to time constraints. But, if you have longer, I definitely suggest engaging with the craftspeople to learn about the techniques and symbolism behind their creations.

The city is built over a desert oasis, although I didn’t notice much greenery. With the Sahara moving southward 30 miles a year, Chinguetti’s once lush surroundings have changed dramatically. Evidence of its lush past can be seen in the Neolithic cave paintings found at the Amogjar Pass, depicting grassland teeming with giraffes and antelope.

For now, the city is divided into two distinct parts: one side features the ancient old town with its historic libraries, while the other side showcases the newer, more modern developments.

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Is Chinguetti a Safe City to Travel?

So here’s the thing: if you google Mauritania safe, countless articles will come up saying that it isn’t a safe place to visit, with a few exceptions. I’m on the side of the few exceptions because, as far as I can tell, Mauritania is a safe place to travel.

I visited with my dad, but I also left him in the capital to travel to the Adrar region as a solo female traveller—an area the FCDO advises against travel, along with the rest. I’ve read articles saying it’s dangerous and full of terrorists, kidnappings and bombings, but from what I experienced, that couldn’t be further from the truth.

I saw no evidence of this and heard nothing but good things. If I’m honest, Mauritanians have been some of the most talkative and engaging people I’ve met on my travels. There are areas that I’ve read not to travel to, such as the Mali and Algeria borders, but this is nowhere near Chinguetti and the Adrar region. Plus, there’s a vast desert separating these areas.

As for Chinguetti, even though I was only there for half the day, I felt safe. We had a guide, yes, but I would have happily travelled there and explored solo. I honestly don’t believe I would have had any issues.

This is my experience, and I’m by no means discrediting other sources, but I will say that to even get to Chinguetti, I had to pass numerous military checkpoints. The country is safe because of these checkpoints; no one travels around Mauritania without the officials’ knowledge. 

What if you’re travelling as a solo female?

It’s also worth mentioning that Mauritania is a Muslim country, and so there is a patriarchal system. I may have noticed this at times, but generally, I had no issues and actually found people, such as those working in the shops and bus terminals, to be very helpful and friendly. 

At no point did I ever feel uncomfortable; however, you should prepare some harassment. I was also covering my head during most of the trip. I suggest purchasing a head scarf or turban and wearing it as a sign of respect in public areas; this might have contributed to why I was received so well. 

⭐ Pro tip >> At each checkpoint, I had to show a “fiche”, which is a photocopy of my passport. I recommend taking a load of photocopies with you so you don’t get held up at the checkpoints. I had 20 with me and ran out!

Chinguetti travel insurance

When exploring countries like Mauritania and engaging in adventurous activities, it’s essential to prioritise your safety in unexpected situations. Having the right travel insurance is important. Check the best quote for Mauritania!

⭐ For my recent travels, I’ve also started using SafetyWing to book my travel medical insurance. I need peace of mind, especially after seeing friends rushed to the hospital and another break her back.

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Accommodation In Chinguetti: Should You Stay?

I didn’t stay the night in Chinguetti; however, I have heard good things about the following auberges. An auberge is a smaller guesthouse, typically run by a local family. Auberges are some of the best places to stay and, likely, the only options in areas like Chinguetti. They provide a fantastic opportunity to interact with the local community.

• Auberge Eden chinguetti
• Auberge Zarga chinguetti
• La Gueila

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Travel To Chinguetti FAQs

What is the climate in Chinguetti?

Chinguetti experiences a hot desert climate typical of the Sahara. The temperatures can be extreme, especially in the summer months. Here’s a breakdown:

• Summer (June to September): Temperatures can soar above 40°C (104°F) during the day and remain warm at night.
• Winter (December to February): Daytime temperatures are milder, between 25°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F), but nights can be quite cool, sometimes dropping to around 10°C (50°F).
• Rainfall: Chinguetti receives very little rainfall, averaging less than 50mm (2 inches) annually, mostly occurring between August and September. That said, there has been a rise in flash flooding, which is raising concerns about the safety of the manuscripts.

Travel spending in Chinguetti

It’s tough to say precisely, as travel costs in Chinguetti can vary based on your preferences for accommodation, food, and activities. However, for a budget traveller, I’d say daily expenses in Chinguetti will be around $50, including accommodation. Mid-range travellers might spend a little more, but there won’t be much on it.

Here’s an estimate to help you budget your trip:

• Auberges/Guesthouses: $20-$50 per night for a basic room.
• Local Meals: $5-$10 per meal at local eateries.
• Tea Rooms/Cafes: Around $2-$5 for tea and snacks.
• Private Driver: Approximately €300 ($350) for a day trip from Terjit to Chinguetti to Choum for three people.
• Local Buses: Less expensive. It cost me 500 MRU from Nouakchott to Terjit, but it can be irregular and slower.
• Guided Tours: $30-$50 for a local guide to show you around the city and its libraries.
• Entrance Fees: Most attractions are free, but some libraries might ask for a small donation or fee.
• Souvenirs and Crafts: $10-$50 depending on the item, such as textiles, leatherwork, and jewellery.

What To Bring To Chinguetti?

• West Africa travel guide by Lonely Planet
• Turban | Useful for protecting your face from dust and sand.
• Sun Hat / Cap & Sunglasses | Shield your eyes from the intense sun and dust. 
• Sunscreen | Make sure you protect your skin.
• Water Bottle | I always leave the hotel with our water bottle; it is my favourite.
• Bug Repellant | There are a few around the oasis; be sure to pack something.
• Swimming Costume | It’s worth taking a full costume as Mauritania is a Muslim country. Although not necessary, consider a T-shirt to wear over the top as well. 
• Hiking Boots | I lived in my boots throughout the whole trip.

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Final Thoughts | Travel to Chinguetti

Chinguetti Mauretanien is a hidden gem in the Sahara, offering a unique blend of history, culture, and adventure. Despite its secluded location and the challenges of getting there, I think it’s a truly fascinating destination. 

Travelling to Chinguetti requires patience and flexibility, but the experience is worth it. Whether you’re there to explore the maze-like old town, visit the historical libraries, or simply enjoy the tranquillity of the desert, Chinguetti offers a rare glimpse into a bygone era.

I loved the welcoming smiles of the locals, the way we tried to communicate with hand gestures over tea, and the local crafts; I wish I had bought something to take home as a reminder of my time there!

If you’re seeking an offbeat adventure filled with history and culture, Chinguetti is an unforgettable destination. As you plan your trip, remember to embrace the slow pace of travel in Mauritania, engage with the local community, and take time to soak in the atmosphere of this remarkable city.