Are you looking for the ultimate travel guide to Sierra Leone? If so, this is the post for you!

A couple of months ago, I visited Sierra Leone for the fifth time. I’ve made the journey to the offbeat country alone and with friends, but I’ve always had family living in the capital. My trips, for the most part, have been experienced through local life rather than through the eyes of a tourist.

Sierra Leone is a truly off-the-beaten-path travel destination. It’s a rugged and wild country where anything goes. Life here is a day-to-day adventure, and every moment can feel like a challenge. Some might even label it dangerous, but I beg to differ!

I love Sierra Leone. It’s not easy to travel to, and the poverty is heartbreaking at times. However, the stunning landscapes and unique experiences that await you are unlike any other, making it a destination worth exploring.   

In this post, I’m sharing all the important information I’ve learned from my travels to Sierra Leone to help guide you through your trip so you know exactly what to expect when you visit.

Abi on a beach at the Turtle Islands at dusk in the Sierra Leone is worth it.
Travel to the Turtle Islands in Sierra Leone for a unique adventure.
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The Sierra Leone Travel Guide

The most vital piece of information I can give to you is to be patient. Travel to Sierra Leone is challenging at the best of times. Moving around the country can also be chaotic if you don’t have a private driver. Even getting to the capital from Lungi Airport is not as straightforward as you might think.

Sierra Leone has a population of over 8.9 million, which is a huge number considering the majority of the country is uninhabited. The highest population is centred around the Freetown peninsula, but other major hubs like Bo and Kenema are also highly populated.

However, you will mostly find stunning pockets of untouched nature.

Sierra Leone is not just about its urban centres; it also boasts remote Indigenous tribes. Some of the tribes that exist include the Mende, Temne and Limba. Each tribe has its unique culture and traditions. Mende, for example, has a spiritual unit that contributes to Sierra Leone’s diverse heritage.

When visiting, you’ll notice the beautiful typography of the land. Sierra Leone’s landscape is diverse, ranging from lush rainforests and mountains to white-sand beaches and islands. This varied terrain is perfect for adventurous souls who love to explore off-the-beaten-path destinations.

Overall, travelling to Sierra Leone is an eye-opening experience. This time around, I felt that I really connected with the people and culture. Previously, I didn’t have this sense, possibly because I was too young to appreciate the spirit of Sierra Leone fully.

A close up of Abi and a lady smiling in Sierra Leone
I absolutely love visiting Sierra Leone and meeting friendly locals.

Guide To Travelling Around Sierra Leone

Lots of people think that Sierra Leone isn’t travelable; it’s certainly a country that rings alarm bells in most people’s ears. A lot of that fear comes from the brutal civil war that took hold of the country in the 90s, but the country has been at peace ever since and has made big progress.

That said, the political climate can still be a bit tense. In 2023, there was an attempted coup following disputed elections, which sparked unrest in Freetown. While things have calmed down and the country remains stable overall, tensions between political parties still exist, especially around election time.

It’s best to avoid any political rallies. I’ve been on the streets when they are taking place (not by choice), and they can get heated quickly and become dangerous. I really recommend avoiding any political gatherings.

Despite all that, Sierra Leone is a really interesting and exciting place to visit. 

It isn’t for the faint-hearted, and you’ll need a sense of adventure to enjoy the trip. The problem is that there is basically no infrastructure in place, let alone travel infrastructure, meaning planning travel to Sierra Leone is going to have its difficulties. 

There are tour operators who can organise excursions once you’ve arrived in Sierra Leone, although due to the style of my travel, I’ve never used any. I can suggest Rainbow Tours as I’ve heard good things about them from fellow travellers. 

Independent travel to Sierra Leone is possible, but you’ll need to be an intrepid traveller. In fact, the majority of the time, you’ll need to arrange flights yourself, even if you choose to explore the country through a tour operator. You can book hotels on platforms like Booking and Agoda, while activities can be arranged locally.

BOOKING MY FLIGHTS TO SIERRA LEONE

There is no national airline in Sierra Leone, but carriers such as Air Maroc and Brussels Airlines offer flights; there are no direct flights, so travel to Sierra Leone can take a long time. On my last trip, I flew with Air Maroc. 

The journey itself was okay with no issues; however, the quality of the aircraft was lower than I had hoped. Nevertheless, the meals were satisfying, which is always crucial to me.

We made a 2-hour connection in Casablanca, which made the overall journey 9 hours (from London) – the two flights totalled 7 hours, which isn’t too bad, to be honest.

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ARRIVING AT LUNGI AIRPORT

I remember the first time I travelled to Sierra Leone. It was 2012, and the airport was still a small, run-down building with squat toilets and prison bars on the windows.

Outside, it was pure chaos. People were squashing their heads up against the bars while yelling and shouting, and big crowds surrounded the exit. If I’m honest, I was a little shocked—I’d never experienced anything like it before! 

Today, things have massively improved. The airport has had a revamp; it looks more like a contemporary airport than a run-down slammer.

While some might say the airport’s modernisation has meant it’s lost some charm, arriving in such chaotic circumstances was an adventure in itself. For practicality, though, it’s a massive improvement. But don’t worry—if it’s an adventure you’re after, I promise Sierra Leone won’t disappoint.

WATER TAXI VS GOVERNMENT FERRY

As soon as you set foot outside the airport, you will feel Sierra Leone’s unpolished charm.

A disorderly swarm of touts will surround you, trying to sway you to their transport and hotels; they are there for a reason. To get to Freetown, you have two choices: the government ferry or a private water taxi. There’s also an option to travel by road around the peninsula, but it takes a long time, so I don’t recommend it.

I have always travelled to Freetown on the water taxi, a medium-sized speed boat carrying twenty or so people.

Due to Sierra Leone’s economic situation, there isn’t enough funding for infrastructure, and simple things like running and maintaining a government ferry across the peninsula are a challenge.

Boats rarely run on time and sometimes not at all, and if they do, they are prone to breakdowns. Therefore, travel to Sierra Leone can be unpredictable.

USING THE TUK TUK & LOCAL TRANSPORT

Tuk tuk in Sierra Leone
Traffic is mayhem in central Freetown.

Road conditions in Sierra Leone are often poorly maintained or nonexistent, with potholes and dirt tracks being common. Pavements are rare, making walking dangerous, although many people still walk miles to reach their destinations.

The traffic is horrendous, and getting stuck in it is a common occurrence. As for driving abilities, if you’re a nervous passenger, Sierra Leone will be challenging.

My favourite way to travel around Sierra Leone is in a tuk-tuk. It’s also one of the most economical options. Tuk-tuks originated in India but are popular throughout the country; Freetown is a hub for them. Locals use them daily, and they effectively get you around the capital. However, prepare for a white-knuckle journey!

There are also motorbikes used as taxis, known locally as Ocardos. These are slightly more expensive than tuk-tuks but faster. However, in the grand scheme of things, they are still very affordable.

I would say they are death traps as no helmet is provided, but I have jumped on them many times—the little daredevil in me rearing its head.

Local buses, known as Poda Podas, will also be zooming along the busy roads. I’ve not used them in Sierra Leone before, but I can imagine it will be very squashed and hot, offering an uncomfortable trip. Best stick to the airy tuk-tuks, but prepare to get dusty.

PREPARE FOR DELAYS, CANCELLATIONS AND CHANGES

Sierra Leone’s travel infrastructure is very limited. Therefore, planning travel to Sierra Leone can be challenging due to the lack of established norms and the general lack of efficiency compared to home.

It’s important to adjust expectations, be patient, and take things lightly when they go wrong, which they often do. The lower maintenance standards and long distances between attractions can lead to frequent vehicle breakdowns; I’ve been left stranded on the roadside many times.

This can make travelling in Sierra Leone tiring and occasionally frustrating, but it’s crucial to understand that locals have a different approach to handling such situations.

Delays are common; nothing runs on time in Africa. Locals often refer to “Africa time,” meaning you should go with the flow rather than worrying about schedules. 

They also say in Sierra Leone, “never a dull moment,” and it’s true—there’s always something happening. AWOL (an alternative way of life) is a common sentiment here, reflecting the unique local perspective. Things are different, and you can’t go by European standards; Sierra Leone is wild, to say the least, and travel can offer a more raw and adventurous experience.


Why Should You Visit Sierra Leone

Table, chairs and beach umbrella on a tropical beach in Sierra Leone
This is Kent Beach; it’s the perfect example of a pristine beach in Sierra Leone.

The reason I first visited Sierra Leone was because my dad had moved out there and was living in Freetown. I spent at least a month on each trip visiting him.

I remember my first visit vividly—I wasn’t prepared at all. Travelling solo and arriving in the early morning, I was immediately bombarded by people shouting and grabbing me, which was an experience in itself. Luckily, I’m not too fazed by such things, but I can see how this could be unsettling for others.

These days, I’m drawn to Sierra Leone for its rugged beauty, friendly atmosphere, pristine beaches, and lively nightlife. If you’re surprised to hear that Sierra Leone has a bustling nightlife, get ready for a treat.

Freetown boasts a booming night scene that comes alive on weekends, especially along its famous city beach, Lumley. If you need one compelling reason to travel to Sierra Leone, this is it!

Sierra Leone’s off-the-beaten-path charm is also a huge draw to me. I love visiting places that are less touristy, and I can enjoy the natural environment without hordes of tourists.

The most appealing aspect of Sierra Leone is its authentic character. Since it’s a place less frequented, it offers a refreshing glimpse into a simpler way of life. It’s been a great eye-opener, making me more appreciative of my life and its blessings.

The major difference between travel to Sierra Leone and other popular tourist destinations in East and Southern Africa is the rawness of the experience. There’s no filter—it is what it is, which is rare to find these days. However, due to these factors, Sierra Leone may not be ideal for first-time visitors to Africa.


Guide to Exploring Sierra Leone 

tuk-tuk in Sierra Leone wit Mantra - life is not about the container but the content.
A tuk-tuk in Sierra Leone with the mantra – life is not about the container but the content.

Sierra Leone is a hidden destination that is rarely considered worth visiting, but I strongly disagree. It’s one of the most interesting countries I’ve ever visited, and every time I travel to Sierra Leone, I find something new to draw my attention. 

The offbeat environment makes it a fascinating country to explore, with endless opportunities to experience new activities. However, day-to-day life in a country where even local infrastructure, let alone tourism, has yet to develop can be difficult. Expectations need to be adjusted to ensure an enjoyable trip. 

The Internet isn’t great in Sierra Leone.

Since I work remotely and require reliable internet access, Sierra Leone posed significant challenges. The lack of Wi-Fi and weak signal were frustrating at times. Unlike many places worldwide, where internet access is readily available—even in similar developing nations in Southeast Asia—Sierra Leone has very limited WIFI connectivity.

This can be problematic when trying to plan expeditions, stay connected with family and friends, research places to visit, and, of course, work if the job requires internet access. Patience is crucial in these situations, as even places with Wi-Fi may experience disruptions, particularly during power shortages.

To travel to Sierra Leone comfortably, it’s crucial to pre-plan and organise logistics for a smoother trip. Fortunately, getting a local SIM card is affordable, and the 3G network works well in Freetown. However, signal strength can fluctuate outside the capital, though it remains accessible in larger towns up-country.

Topping up your local SIM card can be an interesting experience. If it’s your first time, I recommend letting the seller handle it. It involves dialling a number, entering a series of digits, and then inputting a lengthy code—a throwback to the OG pay-as-you-go days!

Power shortages are common.

Due to Sierra Leone’s developing infrastructure, the country experiences frequent power shortages. Blackouts are common, especially outside the capital, making it challenging if you rely on amenities like air conditioning and consistent lighting for a comfortable trip.

If this is the case, Sierra Leone might not be the best country to visit. It’s a place where running water is considered a luxury, bucket showers are the norm, and adaptability is key. My biggest tip is to take a reliable battery pack to power up phones and cameras.

The food in Sierra Leone is delicious but not very varied.

Fried fish and chips in Sierra Leone - you can take the Brit out of Britain, but...
Fried fish and chips in Sierra Leone – you can take the Brit out of Britain, but…

West African cuisine is delicious, with variations that circulate throughout the region. In Sierra Leone, a staple dish is plasas, a stew made from locally grown cassava or potato leaf.

These leaves are finely chopped and cooked over an open coal fire, enriched with spices, ample palm oil, and added meat or dried, salted fish—which is particularly popular in Sierra Leone.

My personal favourite is cassava leaf stew. Another dish I enjoy is groundnut soup, which resembles more of a curry but is distinct in its use of pounded peanuts, locally known as groundnuts. The soup is cooked to a thick, curry-like texture with spices and is often served over rice.

Visiting the markets offers a great selection of goods. While the variety of flavours may seem somewhat limited, as many dishes feature the same spicey base, the array of seafood is always abundant.

Fishing is a primary occupation in Sierra Leone, allowing for the purchase of fresh catches and dried fish, especially in the mornings.

You’ll often see women (and sometimes men) balancing large baskets on their heads filled with fresh seafood and other produce like freshly baked bread and sweet snacks. I suggest keeping to the seafood along the coast, but if you’re travelling inland, adjust food purchases to include local livestock: goat, cow, and chicken.

Language and communication are in English.

One of the great advantages of choosing to travel to Sierra Leone is the extensive use of English throughout the country. If you’re hesitant about travelling to places where English isn’t commonly spoken, Sierra Leone offers a reassuring option.

It is widely used, making communication and navigation very easy—at least in terms of understanding what’s happening when you break down!

Although the official language is English, the everyday language is Krio, an intriguing blend of English, Indigenous West African, and other European languages. Sierra Leoneans switch seamlessly between English and Krio, and you’ll find that learning a few basic Krio phrases is quite straightforward.

Stray dogs are everywhere.

While exploring Sierra Leone, I noticed many stray dogs roaming the streets. Most of them seemed to be in okay health, but occasionally, I encountered some in terrible conditions, which was heartbreaking.

Unfortunately, there isn’t much that can be done. While there are a few shelters like Compassionate Paws, the lack of funding makes it difficult to address the issue effectively.

In local culture, there isn’t a strong tradition of showing kindness towards dogs or animals in general. Life in Sierra Leone is tough, and the focus is often on human survival rather than animal welfare. If you find this disturbing, it might be worth considering another travel destination.

Trash is also an issue

One of the challenges of visiting countries like Sierra Leone is the lack of proper waste management. Rubbish disposal is a significant issue here. Without adequate systems for trash removal and a lack of education on proper waste disposal, rubbish accumulates everywhere.

It can be seen in rivers, along roadsides, on beaches, and even within compounds. People live on top of trash, and it doesn’t seem to faze them. When I asked a local friend about it, she said she didn’t even notice the trash. People often throw rubbish on the streets without a second thought, largely due to a lack of awareness. 

This issue detracts from the natural beauty, but it is just one of those things you need to prepare for.

Uncovering Sierra Leone’s hidden gems

Sierra Leone’s status as a rarely visited tourist destination means that many of its stunning attractions remain hidden gems. The country is filled with natural sites, Indigenous communities, and once-in-a-lifetime experiences that most people never encounter. 

I love exploring the depths of this country, yet there is still so much I wish to see. A visit to the jungle or scaling the highest mountain in West Africa is entirely feasible if you decide to travel to Sierra Leone.

You can visit untouched beaches, remote island communities, and pristine nature reserves. Observing endangered wildlife, such as chimpanzees, in their natural habitat is also possible. Immersing yourself in the local culture through dance and music is a favourite activity, and learning about the country’s rich history is a must for any itinerary.

I promise a visit to Sierra Leone will be a truly memorable adventure!


Best Activities & Tourist Attractions in Sierra Leone 

Lumley Beach in Freetown, Sierra Leone
Lumley Beach in Freetown, Sierra Leone.

Many of my favourite activities in Sierra Leone revolve around being outdoors and enjoying the natural surroundings. The country is tropical, meaning it’s very green and lush and home to beautiful jungle-backed beaches. One of my favourite beaches in the entire world, River No.2 beach, is located here. 

A highlight of my travels to Sierra Leone was visiting the Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary. It’s probably one of the most popular attractions in the country, and I’ve been lucky to visit it a couple of times over the last decade. Both times, I stayed overnight in the eco-lodges, and I absolutely loved this experience. It’s an attraction I highly recommend. 

Visiting the Banana Islands and Turtle Islands is also a hugely popular activity. I’ve been to both and can’t explain how wonderful they are, although both islands provide a different experience. 

The Banana Islands are much easier to access, located at the southern tip of the Freetown Peninsula. A 30-minute boat ride will take you to these dense, jungle-covered islands, which offer fantastic snorkelling opportunities.

On the other hand, the Turtle Islands are extremely remote, providing a truly offbeat adventure. These islands, home to local communities who still live without power in traditional mud houses, feature beaches lined with palm trees and turquoise waters.

My favourite cultural activity is always visiting the markets. Freetown has a particularly huge market, fittingly named “Big Market”, which is open every day. The buzz is unbeatable.

A visit to this market is a must for anyone planning to travel to Sierra Leone, as it’s truly an exciting activity. The market offers a massive selection of goods ranging from fresh produce to rip-off designer fashion and household items – you will literally find everything here.

The best of Lumley Beach.

During my last trip to Sierra Leone, I took morning strolls along Lumley Beach. Whether alone or with a friend, I really enjoyed these walks, especially since I was based nearby in Aberdeen.

Over time, I became familiar with the locals, receiving warm greetings and friendly waves from the community every day. These heartfelt interactions made my time in the capital even more special.

In the evenings, Lumley Beach, otherwise known as “the strip”, is a buzz of excitement. There are plenty of pop-up bars along the beachfront, where I love going to grab a cold beer and watch the sunset over the water.

If I fancied a wilder night, many clubs offer live music and DJs to dance the night away. There are also a handful of cafes and restaurants; one spot to check out is Gigibonta, an Italian restaurant that serves fresh ice cream—a rarity in Sierra Leone.

Sierra Leone is perfect for wildlife and relaxation.

A chimpanzee in a tree in Sierra Leone.
A chimpanzee in a tree in Sierra Leone.

Another reason Sierra Leone is worth visiting is its diverse wildlife, especially for bird watching.

Tiwai Island, a small nature reserve in the eastern province, offers a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in nature. Nestled in the middle of the Moa River, this remote island has thrived in isolation, making it a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. 

Expect to spot many bird species, such as hornbills and the rare white-breasted Guinea fowl, as well as mammals, such as river otters, duikers, and monkeys. If you’re lucky, you might even glimpse the elusive pygmy hippopotamus.

Many environmental and wildlife conservation organisations travel to Sierra Leone to actively work in protecting the country’s natural resources and wildlife.

One of the most impressive aspects of these efforts is the dedication to preserving the country’s unique ecosystems and biodiversity. As a visitor, you’ll have the opportunity to contribute to these vital initiatives.


Make Time For Exploring Outside Of Freetown

Private beach on the Banana Islands.
The private beach on the Banana Islands at Dalton’s Guesthouse.

Travel to Sierra Leone is not only about visiting the capital. In fact, I urge you to explore the rest of the country for an even more rewarding experience. There are lots of cool places outside of Freetown, making for a truly unforgettable trip.

The Freetown Peninsula

Outside the capital, the Freetown Peninsula boasts many breathtaking beaches. The further you venture from Freetown, the wilder and more untouched the beaches become.

Getting to them is pretty easy these days, as a road has been built connecting the north and south. I would say that during a visit, it’s essential to explore the Freetown peninsula. 

A few spots to get you started include River No.2 Beach, which I mentioned earlier. It’s a fantastic beach formed over River No.2 with white fluffy sand, fringed by palm trees and an excellent atmosphere on the weekend with a quaint market. It’s busy during this period, but head there during the week if you’re after a more intimate setting.

Bureh Beach, with its golden sand and tree-lined shore, is a favourite among locals and tourists. It never gets too busy, so you can often enjoy a peaceful beach day with minimal crowds. It’s also a great spot for surfing when the conditions are right.

Tokeh Beach is another fantastic destination, featuring white sand and coconut trees similar to River No. 2 Beach. It also hosts The Place, one of the few luxury resorts in Sierra Leone. If you’re in the mood to splurge, this is the perfect spot for a luxurious retreat.

Bunce Island & Salone’s slave trade history.

Bunce Island is a must-visit for history enthusiasts in Sierra Leone. Located 20 miles upriver in Freetown’s estuary, this small island is home to a castle with a dark history. I suggest Salone Hidden Gems to arrange a tour of the island. The guide will share their knowledge and deep understanding of the country’s past.

From the 17th to the 19th centuries, millions of Africans were shipped from Bunce Island to America as part of the horrific transatlantic slave trade. The island’s historical significance dates back to the 15th century when the Portuguese first discovered the Freetown estuary, an ideal location for trade. 

Initially, locals were captured for manual labour within Sierra Leone. Still, the European colonisation of the Americas increased the demand for slave labour, leading to brutal raids and local chiefs selling captives. By the 17th century, English and Dutch powers had replaced Portuguese influence, continuing the trade of timber and ivory and enslaved people. 

Bunce Island became one of the major launching points, contributing to the shipment of over 10.5 million enslaved Africans to the Americas. Visiting Bunce Island offers a poignant insight into this dark chapter of history.

Banana Island’s slave trade history.

defencive cannons in Sierra Leone during the slave trade.
While travelling in Sierra Leone, be sure to learn about its history!

Any trip to Sierra Leone should include a visit to the Banana Islands. During my stay, I went on a historical tour that shed light on its dark past, reminiscent of Bunce Island but on a smaller scale. Enslaved Africans were once held here before being transported across the Atlantic to America.

The tour was educational yet sobering, as my guide detailed the brutal living conditions and atrocities endured by those held captive. Deep pits served as punishment for disobedience, and many were isolated when ill, either to get better or tragically die, alone and scared.

Remnants of defensive walls and cannons spoke of the island’s efforts to fend off pirate attacks—testimony to the lucrative yet grim slave trade.

Sadly, many of these historical sites have been reclaimed to nature and overgrown by jungle. This neglect extends across many significant sites in Sierra Leone, impacting their appeal to tourists. It reflects a broader challenge the country faces in preserving and promoting its historical heritage.

Outamba-Kilimi National Park

A trip to Sierra Leone should include a visit to at least one national park. Outamba-Kilimi National Park lies in the northwest of Sierra Leone and slightly west of Kabala, quite near the Guinea border. It is the place to spot incredible wildlife on a Sierra Leone Safari, where the savanna meets the rainforest.

Outamba-Kilimi National Park, near Kabala, warrants an expedition if you love hiking and spotting wildlife. Kabala is a good place for a base, too; I suggest staying at Tec-1 Guesthouse and talking to Lamtec, the owner, for tours to the National Park if you want to visit independently.

Mount Bintumani

Mount Bintumani is the highest peak in Sierra Leone and is worth visiting if you like trekking and panoramic views. For more information on hiking Mount Bintumani, check out this website.


Sierra Leone Is A Safe Country To Travel

View of central Freetown in Sierra Leone.
View of central Freetown in Sierra Leone.

Between 1991 and 2002, Sierra Leone endured a brutal civil war that resulted in significant loss of life and widespread displacement.

During this troubled time, travel to Sierra Leone became extremely dangerous. However, that conflict ended over 20 years ago. Despite this, Sierra Leone’s reputation as an unsafe destination has persisted, often overshadowing its progress and potential as a unique travel destination.

Today, Sierra Leone is a safe place to visit, and I always feel safe when I’m there. While petty theft does occur, serious crime is rare. In my experience, Sierra Leoneans are gentle, kind, and helpful, always greeting with a smile. Perhaps years of war have left them with a desire for peace rather than violence.

One recommendation I would give is to be aware that views on things like personal space differ culturally in Sierra Leone. People will often come up to you and want to chat, touch, and sometimes grab, which can be concerning if you’re not used to it. Children especially like to surround tourists.

Of course, it’s important to remain vigilant and never leave valuables out of sight. As I mentioned, things do tend to go missing.

There is also a new drug, known as Kush, overtaking the country, which, from my understanding, is a mix of psychoactive marijuana mixed with an opiate and sometimes ground human bones. It’s causing disastrous effects throughout the country, turning users into a zombie-like state, often falling asleep along the roadside and causing large abscesses on the legs and arms.


Accommodation in Freetown

I’ve stayed in all the accommodations listed below (excluding the Stafford Lodge), and they are the best for a comfortable stay.

What To Expect From Sierra Leone Hotels

Accommodation in Sierra Leone can be unpredictable, and prices don’t always match the quality. With little competition, rates can be high even if the standards are low.

Since travel infrastructure is still developing, it’s important to adjust your expectations. You might face limited electricity, a lack of air conditioning, outdated furnishings, and bucket showers.

In Sierra Leone, “basic” really means basic! However, there are a handful of top-rated hotels that offer more comfort, such as The Place Beach Resort and Toma Boutique Hotel, though you’ll need to pay a premium for these amenities. 


Travel Spending in Sierra Leone 

Local tea/medicine on a roadside stall in Sierra Leone.
Local tea/medicine from a roadside stall in Sierra Leone will be inexpensive.

It might come as a surprise, considering the country’s economic position, but travel to Sierra Leone can get expensive for a tourist. You might laugh at this and think, how can a country with a minimum monthly wage of about $45 USD be expensive? But, from a tourist’s point of view, it does get pricey. 

Sierra Leone is expensive. 

Costs in Sierra Leone mainly arise from tours, dining out, private drivers, evening entertainment, and accommodation. While budget-friendly options are available, finding comfortable lodging, especially with amenities like air conditioning, can mean a trip to Sierra Leone gets pricey.

If you seek comfort, expect accommodation and a private driver to be one of your biggest expenses. Some excursions will also leave a small dent, but well worth the money if you ask me.

If you want anything other than plasas, like Western cuisine, these types of restaurants will also have premium prices. A decent cocktail from such establishments will set you back 200 le., which is around $8 USD.

But then again, Sierra Leone can be travelled on a budget

If you’re backpacking, eating from local restaurants and roadside stalls will cost peanuts – a plate of plasas is between 12 – 50 le. ($0.50 – $2 USD). Local transportation is also very affordable.

For example, a tuk-tuk from central Freetown to Lumley Beach is only 20 le. ($0.80 USD), while the same tuk-tuk to River No.2 Beach will cost 250 le. ($10 USD) – it’s about 26 km/ 40 minutes from Freetown.

For reference, the local Star beer is 20 le. ($0.80 USD) and a Guinness is 40 le. ($1.60 USD), so, if you are travelling on a budget, it is best to avoid the pricey cocktails and eat locally!

Money in Sierra Leone

Since budgeting for any trip is crucial to having an enjoyable and relaxing time, I’ve written a comprehensive money guide that explains why Sierra Leone is expensive, provides money-saving tips, and shares all my expertise on what to expect.

With that in mind, the local currency is the Leone. (le.) and is, at the time of writing, converting from about 24 le. to $1 USD.

It’s not difficult to change money in Sierra Leone, and therefore, I always recommend taking US dollars with you. The visa, airport tax, and water taxi can be paid in dollars, which means you’ll be able to access your hotel without needing Leones. The hotel will then be able to advise you on the best place to change money.

There are ATMS in the larger towns; however, they don’t always work, and I have rarely used them. In Sierra Leone, cash is king, and although cards are accepted in larger hotels and Western-style restaurants, you’ll struggle to use them elsewhere.


The People & Culture 

A group of friends posing for a picture in Sierra Leone.

Sierra Leone is not accustomed to large numbers of tourists, but the country’s population is densely centred around Freetown, which means it is a very busy area.

So, although they may not be used to seeing tourists, they are used to crowds. Nevertheless, as a ‘white man’ visiting such places, you will get stared at, stopped and talked to every day. 

Personally, it’s nice. I enjoy conversing and joining conversations with locals. I’m always aware of my surroundings, though, as it’s crucial not to lose yourself in the chaos. At times, it can be a little too much, but a polite “let’s talk next time” or “not today” usually works in removing unwanted attention.

Keep in mind that what might be common sense elsewhere often isn’t in Sierra Leone. Understanding the local culture is crucial, which is why I wouldn’t recommend visiting Sierra Leone if you’re not an experienced traveller.

I didn’t get to experience the Indigenous tribes as much as I had hoped, but many of them have mingled with the Krio population in Freetown, so some elements of their culture are now intertwined, and you can experience local traditions through organised tours. 

Sierra Leone has a colourful culture.

I absolutely love Sierra Leone’s vibrant culture. Its customs, languages, and traditions are shaped by diverse ethnic groups and historical influences, making it a culturally unique place to visit.

There are numerous ethnic groups, but the main two are Temne and Mende, followed by Limba, Kono and others. Each tribe has its own social structures and distinct traditions, which are usually focused on music, dance, and bright colours woven into textiles and crafts.

Music and dance are integral parts of everyday life in Sierra Leone, with traditional rhythms and drumming playing a central role. Artists create items that reflect both everyday life and spiritual beliefs, including wood carvings, beautiful woven textiles, and traditional masks used in cultural ceremonies.

One aspect of the culture I adore is the harmonious coexistence of Islam and Christianity. Both religions are practised with mutual respect, and interfaith marriages are common.

Family and community ties are also very strong, with extended families often living close to each other, fostering a sense of communal living. Village chiefs hold significant authority, and elders are highly respected.

Don’t compare Sierra Leone to home.

Life in Sierra Leone is totally different from life back home. It’s crucial to approach your visit without expecting the country to function in the same way you’re used to.

Locals live on a day-to-day basis, rarely thinking about the future. Unemployment is around 77%, mostly stemming from an increased population, rising labour costs, and poor education—only 2.33% of the annual GDP is allocated to education.

Basic amenities we take for granted, like running water, electricity, and internet, are considered luxuries in Sierra Leone. Even having a wide selection of groceries in supermarkets is a rarity.

By understanding and respecting these differences, your trip to Sierra Leone will be a more enjoyable and fulfilling experience.


Sierra Leone Itinerary Ideas For First-Timers

Abi with a beer on Lumley Beach in Sierra Leone
My final beer was on Lumley Beach before we left for the road trip.

I suggest spending at least 10 days in Sierra Leone. The country is expensive to fly to, so you’ll want to make the most of your trip. Ideally, 2 weeks is best.

Centre your trip around the Freetown peninsula. Day trips or overnight visits to popular beaches such as River No.2, Tokeh, and Bureh are great ways to start, end, and break up the trip. Another beach I haven’t mentioned is Lakka; it’s closer to Freetown and is a great spot for sunset, fresh lobster, and fewer crowds.

In Freetown, schedule a day trip to Big Market and a few sightseeing stops like the Sierra Leone National Museum. There is also the famous Cotton Tree, although it was recently damaged and is now split in half – hopefully, funding will be raised to help strengthen the symbolic tree.

I love Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary for an overnight visit and recommend this attraction. If you don’t fancy spending the night in one of their eco-lodges, it’s possible to visit for the sanctuary tour. Another wildlife activity I love is the Tiwai Nature Reserve. You will need to stay at least one night; however, two is best as it is far from the capital.

A couple of nights on one of Sierra Leone’s famed islands is also a must on any itinerary. Either Banana Island or the Turtle Islands will work, or both, depending on your preferences. Just remember that travel to Sierra Leone isn’t straightforward, and itineraries rarely go to plan.

If you want to hike and explore the national parks, then a visit to Outamba-Kilimi National Park or Mount Bintumani will fire up your inner explorer. Cultural and historical tours, such as Bunce Island, are also essential; you can contact Salone Hidden Gems to arrange them.


When To Travel To Sierra Leone

Travel to Sierra Leone during the dry season for perfect sunsets.
Travel to Sierra Leone during the dry season for perfect sunsets.

Sierra Leone’s climate is my favourite – it’s tropical, marked by distinct wet and dry seasons. While you can visit during the rainy season (May to October), the optimal time is during the dry season (November to April). 

Choosing the right time to visit Sierra Leone is crucial, especially as heavy rains can limit accessibility, typically peaking in August. I advise avoiding visits during August and September.

For those interested in waterfalls, early dry season visits are ideal, as water levels may decrease later in the season.

The best time to visit Sierra Leone is between November and January. The country experiences a refreshing breeze known as the Harmattan, which comes from the Sahara Desert. This period offers cool winds, making it the prime time to plan your trip to Sierra Leone.


Essential Sierra Leone Travel Resources

I’ve created a packing list to help make life easier for you and relieve the stress of packing. This useful resource is perfect for any trip to Sierra Leone.

Sierra Leone Packing list

The ULTIMATE Sierra Leone packing list

This is a FREE PDF download.

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⭐ Pro tip >> If you’re going to be using your phone, don’t forget about overseas data roaming. You’ll get charged for using your data. Try Airalo’s eSIMs and download a digital data pack. It’s quick and easy; great if you’re in a hurry.


Final Thoughts | Travel To Sierra Leone

Travelling to Sierra Leone is truly a one-of-a-kind experience. Unless you’ve explored other West African countries, nothing quite compares to it. The culture and traditions here are unlike anything I’ve encountered before, and I’m always moved by how welcoming the locals are.

Despite facing numerous challenges, the resilience of the Sierra Leonean people never ceases to amaze me, either. Their generosity and sense of community are truly heartwarming, and I’ve formed meaningful friendships during my visits.

Living in Sierra Leone has its own rhythm, which I find both charming and occasionally frustrating. This is especially true when it comes to bureaucratic tasks like official paperwork—trying to get our Sierra Leone driving licenses organised for our road trip was a long process. 

Daily life can be tough. ” Life in Salone is not easy,” many of the wealthier locals and ex-pats say, with frequent power outages and limited internet access, yet locals take it in stride as part of normal life.

The simplicity of life in Sierra Leone is humbling. Experiencing this firsthand during a visit undoubtedly brings about a sense of humility and appreciation for what truly matters in life. 

Thank you for reading my post. You can find my latest stories and articles on my blog homepage here. Follow me on Instagram (@abigailcarolina.dalton) and Facebook to see what I’m getting up to and where my upcoming trips are!

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